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I'll leave that fun job to the next owner :rolleyes: I have my pink ticket to go for RR again, and currently my insane-o-meter is pegged at P38, just hoping I keep it from going off scale with an L322.

Thanks, have had the occasional oil drip recently, good guys at local garage couldn't find the cause, but the valley sounds likely. Ive just the glow plugs, easy, and the oil+filter gets done every 6k. 110k mile on it now, touch wood all is good.

Sorry to hear that but horses for courses I guess. My dealer purchased 4.6 cooked itself on day 4 of my ownership, cracked block, they replaced engine and the next 4 years ran fault free until sold. Plenty of other stuff broke and was replaced, but for me that was part of the enjoyment. And now...

I went with STC3679G from Island and it fitted quite well, one mounting hole a bit out, but worked well.

DT with fogs? I know it can be done, but why be arsed on this? :confused:

Chap next to me at caravan site the other week had a lovely TD6. He admitted to me it was looking so good cause he'd just forked out 2 grand for having the rear arch fwd corners replaced and resprayed. Oddly the car wanted to shown them off, by suddenly sinking to the front bump stops but...

Some Jame Taylor Essential Buyer's Guide book quotes that I've previously sent to a mate thinking of getting an L322... ----- There is no doubt that it will become appreciated as a classic of its kind in the future, but it's worth saying here and now that if your idea of classic car ownership...

Noooo hoopties covers everything from tratters to Evoques an we’re mad about em... ok maybe not Evoques o_O

Hooptie: beater, clunker, heap, jalopy, lemon, ramshackle, wreck, shed, banger, beater, rust bucket, death trap, disaster on wheels, or sh!tbox.

The Dumbest Automotive Channel In All Of YouTube :confused: I’ve been a big fan of Hoovies Garage for a few years, sometimes buying a shed and flipping it for a packet, others times buying a supercar that that turns out a basket case. A 2017 Supercharged RR review this week, not my cuppa tea...

+1 puttin em back in with vice is when vice snaps in half and lands on yer foot. Not that I ever did that :confused:

Sounds like it’s fuel or air related, have vacuum leaks been looked for or fuel pressure checked? Rather than throw parts at it, it’s often best to pay for an hours labour on diagnosis at a reputable shop, and they should be able to tell you what’s going on.

I did that recently with my Jeep (queue Spit The Dog) and it certainly shows if the MAF is duff, but usually I find a bad MAF just leads to major hesitation rather than loss of power, as OP describes.

What are the symptoms or circumstances that it happens? (apologies if you’ve described it before).

If I remember right there’s 3 fasteners that secure the carpet board under the hinge flap. Will the flap not tilt a bit to give access?

I think I fixed my last one by strip down, clean up and stuffing a piece of sponge inside the spring. Probably would need replacement occasionally. Other fixes have been making spring from piano wire (who hasn’t got an old ‘grand’ knocking about in the garage somewhere) or a generic spring from...

Sorry emoji meltdown o_O

o_Oo_Oo_Oo_Oo_Oo_O:oops::eek::eek: Something to look forward to on my next P38 then o_O I never did them on the last one, sod's law I'll need to do it on the next. Bound to turn out like Trigger's broom...

I replaced my Classic radius arm bushings with a vice. Hacksawed out the old ones quite easily. Then pressed new in with vice. But last one was tight, and vice broke in half, lol. Vice was a cheap Chinese job so no wonder! Took the arm to LR dealer and mechanic finished pressing it it for me, no...

Not tried it for ages myself but wasn't there a compatibility setting on the Rave.exe file properties that can be changed to Win 98?