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Only thing I'm not keen on is arp studs. New stretch bolts every time. I certainly would put top hats in. Other things I would make assessments when there removed. I would replace the oil pump/FRONT COVER as a matter of course.

I'm very happy with my britpart cellular dynamics. They allow the tray to slide of the dash at every third corner!

Are the lambdas switching? Any codes stored? Air leaks are a classic mixture messer.that could be anywhere between the maf and the lambdas.

One freelander one (still see it around) and the p38.

The cam sensor and the injectors are connected as well. So when the cam sensor shorts it's possible to get continuity between 2 injector wires. The wiring diagram took some grasping as it's in several parts. There should be no continuity between the cam sensor wires( I'm guessing until the...

I would initially just swop the injectors around to see if it helps.if it was a dead short it would throw a code also the misfires diagnostics are quite sensitive. It's tempting to blame the loom and it's fairly easy to change. Mine was terrible and I put a much better new one on but I think...

I have magnecores and there ok.basically better put together. Worth the premium asked....nah but definitely worth a bit more. If it's turning over a bit before starting check the cam sensor

PS look carefully at the ecu I looked once and didn't see it. Second time I spotted it! What I think made it truly difficult was I had to unplug the cam sensor then change the ecu ( doing the security thing) before it started working in any sensible way.

What had happened was the coolant hose popped soaking the cam sensor in hot coolant. This gradually shorted. Then Everytime I put a new ecu in the instant the key turned the track blew. Finally unplugged all the sensor I could and swapped the ecu. Much better.

It may be your diagnostics aren't working with the gems system. I'll relate my take of work( quickly) A week after a hose popped off (after a major rebuild) I was left stranded about 10 miles away. It wouldn't start and after much messing and unplugging it would start with clouds of smoke ...

I seriously doubt you'd see much benefit. I doubt a big beam axle beast will suddenly transform into a disco 3. I reckon new tyres would make much more difference .

I put gen 2s on years ago I seem to recall the ride being more compliant now I know nowt else. I honestly wouldn't think any would be an improvement over any other and not worth stressing about. ( Buy the dunlops) Mine has a built in device that tells me I'm cornering sharper...that bloody tray...

My strategy with these things is to gradually widen the investigations.

I'd try to borrow a nano or try to check if the lambdas are changing ie is it running closed loop. Try the tps check it's values unplug it when it's running. Was the maf definitely good? Does your maf work on another vehicle. Unplug the cam sensor try and start. The maf doesn't really work until...

Theres one on eBay but 4 x300 mafs.

I can't find the rpm v voltage readings. There from a jaguar x300/aj16 repair manual. I used to have copies but can't find them anymore. They both use the Lucas sagem 20AM maf. The bodies are slightly different though. But at a push they will work vice versa. It's probably easier just to...

Sounds like a maf issue to me. The ecu has a strategy to run without the maf using other sensors for the base load. This is gems isn't it? If it is and you've got nanocom I'll dig out the test voltages.

Check the fuel trim. See what adjustments are being made from base.

I'll tell you what though there's a lot of 1996 vintage v8s around my way.

Im with the don't bother crowd on this. Anything over scrap is a waste. Miles are to many. Just because it's a manual is not a reason. Buy a Japanese import with tiny mileage. A Holland and Holland. Anything.... but not this one! But it's your cash....