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Side conversation...so this is another issue that I didn't know I might have... Brakes work fine on my 1997 4.0SE: plenty of servo action, pull up straight. All warning lights go out promptly. Haven't driven for a few days, but got in and switched on. Pump ran for 35 seconds. Pressed the pedal...

Those “black watches” had a 100% return record. Never did get mine fixed.

Those watches were fine as long as you didn’t press any buttons!

To save you getting a complete new latch, I have a pair of latches that I keep in case I need spares. Happy to pop the relevant bit in the post to you, if you could identify it.

Do try to get a photo of that onto this thread - always good to learn about the foibles of our P38's. In retrospect, if you had known what was causing the problem, could you have retrieved or dislodged that broken bit, so you could open the door?

Thanks for the info - interesting. Engineering in the 90's - bonkers! I suppose my view is coloured by the fact that the motors in both front latches were burnt out when I got my P38...

Not sure if "sloppy paste" is what I do, but just dragging the picture from the desktop into the draft message works OK.

I had a problem loading pics using the “add” button but not a problem if you drag the pic into your draft.

OK, so the big freeze suddenly turned into the big thaw with condensing water vapour in the air. I was out a couple of times last week in my P38, on roads that our council helpfully covers in corrosive slime. So this morning I got the old girl out of the garage and in the cool fresh rain I...

If you need a new latch, useful to know that the MG-F uses the same ones, and they are typically a lot cheaper than P38 versions on eBay. The lock motors do tend to burn out.

The attached procedure for testing a latch might be useful. (Courtesy of Marty UK)

Back to the latch problem. Perhaps the motor has failed part way through an operation and left the mechanism in an awkward position. Does remote locking work on the drivers door? How about the other doors? If it doesn't work at all, it can be reset - but what is the current status of remote...

Epic...! I found out early on that you don't ever own a P38 - the BeCM actually owns it but might let you drive it...

Applying logic like that doesn't always work when dealing with a P38..... I like the idea of the slam solution - just keep locking / unlocking / pressing firmly shut a few times. Also, is there any chance that water could have got in there and frozen?

I have been playing around with my spare latch: the latch releases when the "two arm" lever rotates to about 50% of it's total movement - it doesn't need anything like full movement to release. My latch instantly releases fully, whereas you are saying that it releases only to the "first...

Ah, I see what you mean. Not sure how to approach that but hopefully someone else will have suggestions. If nothing is forthcoming I'll take my spare latch apart and see if there is anything obvious.

This might help - or not...

Can you push down on the green clip at the other side of the lock? The C-piece, and the arm that the green clip is on, cause a two-arm lever to rotate and that should release the latch. Or not, in your case. Is that two-arm lever rotating? Does it feel as though it is moving some internal...

Photo shows where the cable inner attaches. Rotate that white C-shaped part anticlockwise to release the lock. Let me know if you need more photos...

Possibly the internal cable has jammed up. If you can see where the cable joins the latch lever, maybe you can pull the cable inner to release the lock. At least it will show you which lever to work. That lever is also actuated by a rod from the door handle that connects using a green plastic clip.