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As tottot says check when stationary. You can try different combinations of each box in neutral. Also check your heater pipes and other bits at the back of your engine. Mine rattled a lot at idle because the pipes were touching something and the engine vibrates more at idle. Same goes with...

Both are water temp sensors. I currently have 2 in mine but I only connect wiring to one. Was cheaper and easier to fit the old one than buying a blanking plug at the time.

Could it be your steering damper? Also check the preload on the swivel top pin, might be time to take a shim out or something.

Sounds like it. When I refurbished mine I never removed any screws from the injection pump, I just pumped fuel through till it came out the top of the injectors return fitting and it fired up fine. Either I was lucky or yours has a problem.

I'd use chassis paint or something first, then dinitrol. Dinitrol is excellent

Looking good, your getting thru it quickly!

Make sure both old washers are off the injector and there aren’t any old washers in the head. Not sure what you mean about the thermostat but unless it’s been sat in the sun I’d of thought it’d be closed/sealed

If they are all the same colour you may need to use a volt meter to identify what they are.

If it doesn’t suck then it must have a leak somewhere but I wouldn’t of thought vape smoke is an efficient way of testing it.

On an early 110 landy if it’s the diff oil spiralled on the wheel, there isn’t any seal. You can renew the cap and drive flange gasket. There are two grease seals either side of the bearings, may be worth checking the oil hasn’t contaminated them. Also just make sure the drive flange or stub...

Spotted this on Facebook, bit of a distance...

If you’ve blown it, it probably wasn’t in the best of health beforehand. A 30tdi in a disco should easily handle 70mph, well known for towing or hard use and generally considered the tough engine to go for. If you want better it may be worthwhile buying a td5 disco or even a D3/4.

You could 300tdi it with a Steve Parker kit, then it’s all unboltable to return to original. If I were upgrading that’s what I would do. Sounds like your current 19J will be a hefty repair but apart from the head the other bits should be cheap. Bit expensive doing both but you would find the...

Welcome, great to see you getting stuck right in.

Are you better off working with a garage or dealer to sort it out this end for you. For instance I’m certain various ex-military dealers will sell you one, sort it out and deal with your exporter.

I’m not saying it isn’t an electrical fault, but mine stopped working completely. I took it out, spun it round by hand and sprayed wd40 in it and it works better than before it broke. That was 6yrs ago. If that doesn’t work, looks like RTC4200 recommended by Litch is readily available.

Looks like Brake Check relay

Most likely fault is the hazard switch. The indicators and hazards run through it.

Welcome. I suppose it depends how much of an off-roader you need and your budget. For instance you could acquire a pulse ambulance and convert it, very expensive. You could also convert a 110 or a disco 3/4 for your needs. If your just wanting something with an extra bit of traction you could...

Nice purchase, welcome to the madness we call landy ownership