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I have been trying to sort out why the oil temp gauge does not work for too long. All the parts test as they should, continuity, I need to look at it again. But you have a voltmeter, trucks I have do not have voltmeter.

Like you said just to pull things around the yard.

I have old winch waiting someday & would prefer one battery. On this side you see a lot of double batteries, but yes what for.

The starting battery is also the winch battery?

Originally a soft top you say, it is a 110 3 tub.? The holes were crudely done for speakers! Will need patching. unfortunately the sills were welded to bulkhead so that is slowly coming apart, why I was asking about switches. I will need to go through all the wiring for any bad areas...

C34FEFD0-D452-421C-A0AC-FDBAB5329707 by seaswood, on Flickr

Pick up rear opening for what we call a tail gate you may call tail board. What you may cal the floor in the rear.

Thanks, the opening for the bed was modified at some point assuming some thing was fitted to rear bed?

Thnx the Xmod does not have that option.

Rear heated screen this is a pickup? the interior light switch is a dual switch not sure what other side is. Thnx yes coming apart so disconnecting fixing repairing

What are these switches, 84 110 I have put in a hazard & running lights on a later 90. These are tho done nicely original, as this comes apart nice to know. Hazard in center R & L is? 490A5131-2767-48C1-AF87-328A5E6F20CE by seaswood, on Flickr

The fronts you sorta need to push the axle down enough to get it out watch them fingers. I had to Jack frame up to be able get axle down enough. Both wheels off. The shocks are likely to be more work as they need to come off first. Rears are easier as shock is separate.

Thanks The olive & nut some fuel hoses arrived, I looked at & did not think they would work at all. Installed shocks then I tried the connectors & they do work. The fuel supply level unit measures 8 mm either I cut off the end or just replace with new as end is distorted to fit olive. The...

You sorta have five to ten nano seconds to get the final top cap in place & get the nut started. I had left the assembly compressed over couple of nights, plus using a flat washer for compression.

I was about to pick up a mall realized I had to stop, figure out a better way. The poly bushes may be great if they will stay compressed whilst parts are shifted, unlikely. a thinner washer sounds like best idea tho. & assuming there will be several go arounds to get there. Thnx

the britpart Orange shock with the yellow bumpers I was able to get the bottom nut on after compressing over night. But the top nut ? To compress the bumper & also screw on the nut, Nada no way. is there any better way to do this?

Thanks there is a bit of sludge in there have not shined a light yet or prodded but tank is out. Rear of rear bed frames is shot with holes the rest looks better.

yes you are correct I was looking for it at the other end as other truck has! As I was removing bolts securing the forward mount of rear tank the bracket #5 broke. That are needs maintence/inspection. is there a suggested method to clean inside diesel tank, it will be a while before it is...

Assuming the fuel intake/gauge needs to be removed to remove rear tank as fuel fill is on other side. Tight fit between the frame. Starting to like the side tank in 90. The Bosch fuel filter shown above there seems to be no spill from injectors 200 tdi engine. But any diesel should have a spill...

What have you used in the footwells? I tried to get the bits for there NLA Someday I will have the dash rebuilt looks good tho.