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not best practice from a safety point of view. Prob best not drive a series Landrover then.

Re the safety belts...I just bolted side on to the side rail of the tub....mine were out of an old VW golf...rears I think....the mounting angle was important or they locked. Passed prob 30 mots with them fitted. The the tail gate antiluce....I bought 2 from a trailer part...

Long as its a localised hole/corrosion....just weld it up.

That the very reason I removed my amp meter and fitted a volt meter....gives similar info in a much safer way...you were lucky there was not a fire....or buggered your alternator.

Wear is taken up as you adjust.... is white...some people mix light blue with white....well if it is white you could have an injector prob...does it start well from cold. You ever had any injector work done.

"there's a reason that tubeless rims evolved to include the ridge" You would think so would you not....tubed rims dont have them....silly inst it...it a tubed tyre has a rapid deflation....it will behave just like a tubeless tyre.

If your trying to inflate just kick the rim into the tyre....and when your airline is on gentle pressure on the side of the wheel the rush of air will plop the bead outwards. I presume you have a compressor.

I have never needed a Landrover wheel to be balanced in near 50 years.

Takes quite a bit of practice demounting car tyres....I have been doing it 50years just for myself. Made my own bead breaker...well on the Mk2 now. I have fitted tubeless tyres on my old std rims....for getting on 30 year....so much better and a big weight saving....its not a prob fitting them...

You have the pump timing to far retarded...give it a tad more advance...only 1mm of rotation of the pump at a time...keep going till its sounds a bit harsh...then retard just a bit. Do you also find on cold start at idle it has a bit of an uneven exhaust note...with blue smoke?

People I know that fitted RM say nothing but probs...the odd sized bush thank god stopped me buy them years ago. GM springs made in the UK are great.

Quite common....usually free off after driving a short distance.

Do you know its possible to mount the slave upside down...the bleed nipple needs to be highest.

I used to think that as well.

Not quite sure all 2.25 blocks are the same....my mate did this years ago...he got an early 2.25 block...something different about it...cant remember what...but he could not use it...as ACR...Roland will tell you.

I used to have one on mine...at first I fitted a 30 amp....used to go odd the scale...not that that matters really....normally only after a cold start where lots it drawn from the batt. Later on I fitted a 50amp...that was fine. Then I realized I didn't really need an amp meter and in fact it...

Mine has the shoes fitted that it came out of the factory with...over the years they have been wet with oil....still holds well. Modern shoes just don't seem to fit were they should to me...can be a nightmare.... Handbrake on....in first gear....chock wheel if ness.

When I had a 2.25d in mine I had to replace those O rings...if your handy its not to bad...its a pump off job...be very careful to note where all the linkages go into which holes and where the spring hooks into. Just need 2 new O rings....

No it wont cause a misfire...if its only the odd drip ignore it unless you want to get involved in a fiddly job. If its missing on idle is it also putting out some blue smoke...does it tend to be worse when the engine is cold...is so its quite common and the pump timing just needs advancing a tad.

I picked up a spare S3 box years ago for free....its been a massive source of spare parts for me...yes get one. Nick.