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i explained many times, just one example https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/speedo-out-of-synch.375403/post-5269337

Yes

The only way is to fit a speedo(VSS) corrector

After you set it to "driver cancel" did you save that setting turned ign off and unplugged nanocom after 60 seconds or how did you "play" with it? then after reconnection did you see that setting saved in the BCU? ... if the setting was saved and no joy try with European standard, mines are...

Hi, no chance with nanocom but as those tyres are just a bit more than 5% bigger than standard the speedometer reading will be closer to the true speed like with std tyres as with std there is an aprox 5% higher speedo reading than the true speed... that's valid for almost all same generation...

If it goes down to 11.9 over night that battery is almost gone, measure voltage while cranking too and if it drops below 11 then you need a new one cos in short time the engine will not start even if it cranks

Remove the door card and when it's raining hard watch from the rear seat with a flashlight maybe you can see where the ingress is... or ask somebody to poor water on the rear while watching... even better if you jam paper towels to the suspect areas and see where they get wet unless you see...

Hi, first of all check the battery and charging to be ok, eventually give it a full charge then see if the amigos and M+S lights are still coming on then Yes that's correct check the fault code stored in the TCU, it might be coincidental if the battery is strong enough

then seave these too and you are covered with all you need especialy if you know electrics, if you see any connector Cxxxx in th diagram you can find it's view and positionin the library - connectors - Electric Diagrams - Electrical library

That's a part of the the so called RAVE which is now hard to find entirely and make it work as it used to, what year is your D2 ?

that's OK then... though watch the dash as much as you can on a longer drive when your gauge shows more than 50, the vehicle's gauge goes to the middle when it gets a 70*C input from the ECT sensor so if you pick the moment when it's rising from a quarter to half see your gauge's reading then...

save it and open with acrobat https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/9wickbiu5t3k31vlfx3jf/AKNek7-iD3FjS8Sn0SwJJT4/Workshop%20manual.pdf?rlkey=9y1bvlm844d3qsjhfyjpxps0e&dl=0

Hi, it's more than fairly straight.... next time search in the workshop manual, much better than online ;) btw how did you end up with the conclusion that it's gone?...just to make sure you dont buy one in vain

IMO that's too low so you might have a stuck open thermostat, the intercooler should not affect the engine temp soo much... woud be good to check the coolant temp input with a scanner to see the difference then you can have an ideea how to interpret that reading... a friend of mine fitted a...

This has always been a dillema for me as i know that the late D1's diff is the same with the D2's but gaskets are listed only for D1 so i'm wondering if these Diff gaskets would be good for D2 as well or not ?

Hi. I can still recommend the Bullet as it lasted about 8 years for me and i wasn't scrupulous with it which is a good longevity these days, just replaced it few months ago while it was still usable but i like the battery to be very powerfull... i would have bought anoter from UK cos it's not...

but the glovebox light you fitted works alone ? if not double check fuse F33 and if it's 100% good check if there is voltage on it

Yes, your readings are way too low, it should be like in the table corroborated by a laser thermometer pointed to the engine head, buy a new sensor and measure that one to compare maybe your multimeter is making tricks... how many digits you see on the screen when you set it to 20k with probes...

I've seen some defeders with theyr's tuning, IMO they are good only for competition vehicles not for daily drivers. I spent a lot of money and tried 4 different remaps and the best i've got was from Alive tuning UK but i have a friend in in UK who arranged things and sent me the ECU in private(...

what if you kick it down uphill to 3000rpm on a longer climb?... i doubt it doesnt peak up to 800 Now compare them with mine on std tyres: City: max 250 usually flashing below 200 (doing 40-70km/h) Ex-urban/highway 250 -max 300 (90-110km/h) Going uphill max 400*C 90/95km/h ... i rarely see 550...