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Thanks for the links!

I had never done anything other then an oil change in a lawmower and a snow blower, and I was able to change the thermostat on my V6 freelander. I gave myself lots of time, labeled every part I disconnected so I knew where it went back in, and I took picture before and after each part removed...

Please post a picture, to help us direct you in the correct direction

Before talking about changing engine. I would remove the "noise" cover, and take many looks with a flashlight to see how the thermostat housing is looking. It might be as simple as that. If that is the case, I would flush out the K-Seal ASAP. Take and post what you see, it should not cost...

To add to this discussion, Carlson on this site of the pond makes after market brake slider pins and bolts, part number H5082 http://www.carlsonqualitybrakeparts.com/ These are the ones I bought. Here is the list of compatible cars (maybe some of them were made/imported in europe and the...

Thanks for the update! What brand of cylinder head gasket did you use? Did you change only one or both? Did you change any other gaskets? The ECU fan, What made you look at it (as in what symptoms ? ) Martin

What year is your Freelander?

I was able to change the thermostat by only removing the front inlet manifold, I did not need to remove both.

I hope these pictures are useful to someone. Taking pictures at night in winter in Canada is a challenge in itself.

Hi All This entire post will be based on based on a 2002 Freelander V6 NAS edition, using conventions for Left Hand Driven vehicles. I am not aware which other countries in the World uses USA style towing, but this would apply to them. I thought I would post this for reference purposes...

Did you measure the liners to make sure "they stand proud" meaning they are a little bit higher then the engine cylinder block? something around 0.10 mm to 0.12 mm (giving you metrics measures as you are in Brasil) Good link on this...

This still "smells" like a "worn out" camshaft sensor. I went through two recently. It is the classic source of not starting when warm. Having power at the sensor is not a valid test. This is one method to test it, test when warm.

How much does a single used v6 head could go for? Just curious.

If you want to read a great thread on 1.8 K engine repair/rebuild read this: http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=146867

Hi Nodge68. Any ideas if the cylinder liner (5 in this case) needs to have its lip cleaned up somehow? What if it is rusted on the lip? Taking a liner out and using blue hylomar does not appear like fun from what I saw. A nice thread on liners on the 4 cylinder engine, I would think the same...

Very neat test. what is that tester? Just an air regulator connector to the cooling system and running roughly 12 psi ? Is that it ?

Also since the engine is a liner engine, make absolutely sure not to move the crankshaft with the engine head off. If you move the crankshaft with the heads off, the liners will move. Have you looked at the front three sparkplugs to see any difference ?

There are two different rear differentials across all models and all years: Casting 47098 (older up to around 2002) Casting 51441 (newer) There was comments on this board that the newer one stronger casting.

I would look at each spark plug before doing the heads, and do all these: a leakdown test a compression test Report the results. Now did you say you did the chemical test that shows the presence of combusion gas by using a liquid that usually goes from blue to yellow or green? Did you try it...

For what it's worth, the official Land Rover Microcat parts catalog shows the rear prop as being different in the V6 from all the other models