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I just saw your replies folks. Thanks. This evening I disconnected the sender unit and powered up the gauge. The needle jumped just a tiny bit as all the others did. As soon as I reconnected the sender, the needle shot up to 50 degrees. I gave the old girl a run tonight (everything feels so...

Litch, when scrolling down I took a double take and thought "who the hell took piccies of my dash?" It looks so similiar to mine! I've got a boost gauge instead of a voltmeter.

Thanks. Will give it a shot.

Yes of course.

yes it's electric. gggrrrr i'm not a happy chappy. el-cheapo TIM electric gauge that was fitted instead of it never gave me any problems.

Does anyone have a Durite water temperature gauge fitted? If so, what's the reading when the engine is stone cold? I installed one last night and it hits 50 degrees as soon as power is applied (engine is cold - hasn't run for a few days). Surely this cannot be normal.

Sorted! I removed the switch to see where the where the wires went and where did they go? Bloody nowhere! The plug was disconnected. Pushed it back and voila! Thanks chaps

right now they're not coming on. there must be a severed wire or lose contact of some sort which is why i want to know which position the three-way switch should be in in order to illuminate the dash.

I have just collected my 1989 90 from a full body rebuild and am now in the process of installing some goodies - mud dash with loads of lovely gauges, rocker switches, etc. I am a complete numpty when it comes to electrics. The mud dash worked brilliantly when tested directly to a battery...

I would just go ahead and replace it especially if, as you said, it has a little play and has been sat off the engine for a while. It's not expensive and neither is it difficult to replace.

I changed mine last year. Buy one from a reputable firm, no chinese crap. I bought it from www.turbo-rebuild.co.uk. it's a Mellett (not sure if I spelt it correctly), which is the original manufacturer. Very straightforward swap however I did have to heat the bolts up with an oxy-acetylene...

That looks very nice albeit complex (I'm a total numpty with wiring) but I cannot use a TD5 panel since I have a raptor dash.

As part of the rebuild of my 1989 90, I would like to change the scruffy dashboard warning light since everything else, bar the speedo (due to legal implications) will be new. How difficult is it to swap to a more modern set of warning lights (300-tdi type)? Is it just a plug and play or are...

something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electronic-Auto-Car-Stereo-Antenna-AM-FM-Radio-Hidden-Aerial-Universal-Amplified/152392131313?epid=16007506270&hash=item237b4762f1:g:XCIAAOSwH6lXQs68

Sounds like a punctured fork to me.

the new-fangled electronic arials are more than good enough. I bought a cheapo one off ebay and put it in the dash. It didn't even need to be earthed and I have no reason to complain.

Small tip to avoid making a huge mess and worse still, pouring poisonous glycol onto the ground. Buy a 2 metre length of 10mm internal diameter hose, ideally transparent. Use it to siphon off the coolant in the header tank into a suitable container. remove bottom hose from header tank and...

Disco drop arm all the way. Ball joint changes will be a doddle.

I like that setup! Tell us more please :) As I said, I'm not looking for anything special but my current setup just sounds too tinny and not being able to hear a bass guitar gets to me.

As I am currently in the process of rebuilding my 90, one thing I would like to do is change the roof headlining to a later type. My speakers used to be housed in the roof headlining and sound was absolute crap. Any bass would be instantly lost. I am reluctant to cut holes into the new...