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If the air was completely purged from the fuel system, you have no leaks and the pump spinning sound on ignition is normal, then I would replace the filter just in case the one you have is defective. It's the cheapest and easiest option before you start taking things apart.

There were 2 LR service bulletins precisely covering the problem you describe (SSM71816 & SSM72928). I don't know elsewhere but apparently in Australia there was a preventative recall - http://australiancar.reviews/reviews.php#!content=recalls&make=Land%20Rover&model=Discovery%204&gen=514 That...

Spot on @lynall. Thanks for that. Wouldn't have thought it possible but if a Skoda with a broken crank stills runs and drive, I suppose that's the least an LR can do :-)

I would have thought that with a failed crankshaft or timing component, the engine would stop there and then. You don't mention any lights coming on so you can probably rule out the oil pump too. Maybe the flywheel or the starter motor came apart ?

As mentioned by SF, only 2 pins are needed for a genuine alternator. I would just insulate the pin 3 wire just in case you will need at a later stage - some aftermarket regulators use this pin to monitor the output, in which case it would be connected to alternator battery feed.

I too was sceptical about that but was mentioned numerous times by professional mechanics on the web (such as para 2 in both these articles) - https://www.repairsmith.com/blog/brake-booster-check-valve/ https://oards.com/brake-booster-check-valve-function-and-bad-symptoms/ My point here was...

In your other thread, someone suggested that you check the vacuum. I don't know if you've done this already but it seems to me that air is not being removed from the servo and it's entering the brake circuit. With a multipurpose kit like this, you'll be able to verify the functionality of the...

IMO, worth checking the turbo oil seals before opening the engine to access the valves

You could have easily disturbed the gasket during install. I personally found it impossible to do it on my own without a lift in the short time interval allowed by the sealant. Those locating dowels on the gasket proved to be a nightmare to keep them properly aligned with the block, especially...

I might be misreading your comment but to clarify, the rockers on the rocker shaft do not operate the valves but the injector plungers. As for the valves, these are moved by finger followers located underneath the camshaft.

Indeed, cold drink vending machines are normally equipped with heater coils to control the inside temperature when it gets too cold outside.

AFAIK the electric fan is 12" in diameter and is rated at 4000 cfm. Airflow is not just a question of wattage or rpm but depends very much on the size and pitch of the blades. You'll notice that the blades on the original fan are curved, which gives them more surface area and therefore can move...

Don't have a D3 so unless you get better help, see if you can identify that grommet from this link and it will give you the part no. - https://new.lrcat.com/#!/12128/41216/41217/3194

There's also an online version of the Haynes manual - https://haynes.com/en-gb/land-rover/discovery/1999-2000-25-diesel-40359 You don't need to remove the injectors to replace the HG. But if you're also replacing the sealing washers, you can use the pliers method as Stanleysteamer suggested...

Not to worry although I did think for a moment that Carl and Victor could be related :) Anyways, I'm assuming you'll be using RAVE for instructions. Just go through them carefully and check that you have everything ready before you start. In general, any gaskets and sealing washers need to be...

Used Elring gaskets and sealants many times, including HGs and never had a problem. And same with Reinz products (although in my case it was Victor not Carl !).

Agreed 100%. If I'm not mistaken, there's a 3-stage angle torque on these bolts so they are almost certainly stretched past the yield zone and therefore permanently deformed. By stretching them beyond the elastic region, they are able to respond to dynamic sealing gap movements without the need...

I was hoping that it would be an airlock and therefore a minor issue. But from what you describe here, it looks like the sealer clogged the heater matrix in spite of the assurances given by the product manufacturer that this wouldn't happen. I could be wrong but I believe there is a way to...

I believe you'll need a 13mm socket for that plug which should make it an M8 bolt. That would be 8mm nominal diameter so I would buy a few copper washers of different sizes around that mark. As for the torque, I don't think I ever came across a setting for the coolant drain plug so I just use...

There are no valves in the cabin heater circuit, i.e. it is constant flow. But what you describe is very symptomatic to an airlock or perhaps combustion gases that were trapped in the coolant circuit and now cannot escape as the gasket is sealed. I would first bleed the cooling system and see if...