P38A Oil loss at the engine

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Mark Piercy said:
Thread will undo when turned to the right. The trick is to get the big 36mm spanner over to the left as far as possible and smack it with a hammer towards the right. It will eventually shock it loose.
A touch of copper grease on refitting with a couple of good taps towards the left👍
Also check all the pulleys and water pump for noise and play while your in there😊
Click to expand...
Looking at the fan blades that is a petrol so so big spanner smacked from right to left.
 
Thank you. I was able to secure it well with a key for draining oil. After that, everything worked great.
That was really great today. I was also able to loosen the screw easily. In case anyone is interested: I bought a universal wrench for this (23 euros). Two M8 50 screws and it was very easy. Great! Tomorrow we'll continue.
 

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Two more questions – because I'm interested:

- What is that red cable?
- I couldn't get any other seal – this one seems to fit, but does anyone have any experience with it?

Thanks!
 

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Position wise, on a P38 it's where the cam sensor usually goes, but they normally have 3 wires. Maybe that one is grounded through it's case ?
 
...so, project completed. Hope that no more oil drips.
Everything worked great with the tool. The V-belt also fit perfectly. Thanks!!

Special thanks to MrGorsky for the tip about the tool.
 

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Frank_38 said:
Hello everyone,

Unfortunately, I'm stuck.
I can't get the 36 mm screw off the fan.
Is there a trick to it? The disc turns with it—that's the problem. I tried holding it down with a screwdriver, but that doesn't work properly.
Click to expand...

There's a tool to hold the fan in place while you undo it. Diesel is left-hand (reverse) thread.

Might get lucky with a sharp tap from a hammer.
 
Frank_38 said:
Hello everyone,

Unfortunately, I'm stuck.
I can't get the 36 mm screw off the fan.
Is there a trick to it? The disc turns with it—that's the problem. I tried holding it down with a screwdriver, but that doesn't work properly.
Click to expand...
You can make a tool with a flat bar of steel.
cut a short piece off, drillholes so that you can put a nut and bolt in one about 6 to 8 inches up the long peiec, and a corresponding one in the end of the short piece. So you are left with a Y shaped tool with a very long handle.
Then drill holes in the very end of the long piece and another in the end of the short piece.
You can then bolt the two ends through the fan to hold it in place while you take the big nut off.

EDIT, I leave this there for those who do not get the proper tool, and ones like it can be very useful for other applications, it is very adjustable.
 
Good evening everyone,

...the change was a complete success. Not even a drop is coming out.
However, something is now coming out of the screws.
Question: can I simply remove the oil pan? So, loosen the screws and remove it (after draining the oil, of course), or is it complicated? I would like to replace the seal. Which seal is the right one? Is there a number? Thanks!!!
 

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...Good evening everyone,

that doesn't look good. I cleaned everything and now it looks like this?
Is it complicated to remove the oil pan? I don't have a lift. Thank you!
 

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Probably the gasket, or whatever sealant has been used in the past. Looks a bit like where the front cover sealant is supposed to go ??

Put the EAS on maximum height, and place blocks under the bump stops to prevent it dropping. Then just follow RAVE.


1754931306621.png
 
Are you sure its coming from the sump gasket?
Another place it could be from is the valley gasket and it then runs down the front of the timing cover.

Check that both the PCV breathers along with their hoses are not blocked. The nipples that come out of the rocker covers have little christmas tree looking plastic oil seperators in them that are known for getting blocked up and the causing preasure to build in the engine.
 
OK, thank you. I'll clean everything thoroughly again tomorrow, really thoroughly! And then I'll keep an eye on it.

At this point, I have a question: where can I get this ‘RAVE’? Is it an app? /Software? Thanks.
 
OK, I found the video that goes with the RAVE description. It doesn't look complicated.
It starts at 4:18.
I'll tackle that first. I wanted to change the oil sooner anyway because of the ‘sludge’. Now I'll look for the right seal.


 
Frank_38 said:
At this point, I have a question: where can I get this ‘RAVE’? Is it an app? /Software? Thanks.
Click to expand...
RAVE is the official Land Rover workshop manual. It’s got all the specs, steps, torques, and tips. Service bulletins, instruction manuals, the lot.

Available as a PDF, or the more posh .exe file that you need an old Windows XP laptop to run properly.

It’s where we’re getting all the pretty diagrams showing you how to take things apart and put them back together.

It’s kind of free in an internet sort of way. Leaked and cracked many years ago, I doubt LR can be bothered with it anymore seeing as the car is so old. It’s absolutely invaluable to us though! I think you can download it in the Technical Archive of this very forum…..

There’s also Microcat, but we’ll get to that later.
 
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