Disco 2 Boost! (Lack thereof)

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

Shogun243

Member
Posts
57
Location
East Sussex
Morning all!

My beloved money pit has now decided that if you hoof it in 5th around 60 it runs out of power and becomes a lemon for 15 seconds or so.

This also occurs when I downshift from 4th to 3rd for example to engine brake - it suddenly has no go.

For context: turbo has little play and the actuator moves freely. Fuel has a slight leak I believe at the pressure regulator as it seems to have some leak back. The fuel sender unit is optimistic at best, flagrantly untruthful at worst (stranded twice so far when it goes below quarter tank reading).

When having the headlining done the tech noted that the exhaust manifold was warped and blowing, so had a webbed replacement fitted, drove fine after that.

Truck has a Celtic tuning map and has had this since 2022.

Battery is 7 years old and due to the aforementioned leakback issue and resultant difficulty starting after standing, it has gone on strike and often needs jumping. It is on my list to replace just as soon as I dig out a kidney to sell, but fully charged starts the car just fine.

Any ideas? Hope the above is enough info on the state of the landy, maybe oxfam will step in to prevent Land Rover suffering, who knows.
 
HI. Remove fuse F2 from engine bay and see how it runs that way and report... also is it Eu2 or Eu3 engine?
Hi Sierra, thanks for the input.

I'll pull the F2 fuse once I'm back at Base (out with the boss currently). How does one tell whether the engine is EU2 or EU3?

When mapped the ECU did not need to be removed, it was flashed there and then if that helps. Truck is an 02 plate.

Cheers,
 
almost, it's for MAF, wastegate modulator and EGR(hopefully this was bypassed).... though the best would be to see some live data from a ride when the symptom occurs, that would be the really relevant thing
EGR has been blanked off, though that was done by me so can't comment on whether it was done correctly. A sh*part kit with a plenum adaptor and a plate for the other side.

I'm afraid I don't have a nanocom nor chums with one. I assume the Snap-On veritus type scanners won't see what I need?

Cheers,
 
I assume the Snap-On veritus type scanners won't see what I need?
I dont know that tool. If it's multivehicle type which lets you select the vehicle modell and covers the D2 and you can scan each particular ECU (in this case Td5 engine management/powertrain/what ever they call it) then you should try, if it can record the data it's even better. If it's generic OBD2 forget it
 
Last edited:
Morning all,
Pulled the F2 this morning and took it out. Same symptoms I'm afraid.

Other things it does that may be related - at full chat pulling around 3.5-4k it surges very noticably.

It also has a habit of overrevving when changing gear occasionally, despite taking my foot off the throttle completely and fully depressing the clutch, though this isn't consistent.

The power hesitation started happening after I took it down the bypass for a clear out and was giving it some serious onions until it stopped boosting and thus began what we have now!

Cheers,
 
Then you really need a diagnostics session cos it can be the MAP sensor at fault especially it's IAT side but this can be checked only with live data or eventually there is a fault code for it... though that's just a guess unless you want to start a "parts darts" game and replace the sensor in blind to rule it out... untill then check this out: https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/check-td5-fuel-pump-hp.358086/
 
Last edited:
The over reving may be due to the clutch switch. Do you have cruise control? If so engage it then depress the clutch and it should turn off.
Griff
Cheers Griff. No cruise at present. I've actually got a clutch sensor on the shelf in the shed but when we had the gearbox off to do clutch/flywheel a couple of years back bleeding the thing was such a b**tard I'm reticent to disturb the natural order of things to get it in!

Now that Sierra has mentioned fuel, the symptoms feel MASSIVELY similar to my 300tdi years ago when it had air in the fuel system. I'll dig out my multimeter to check the mV across the fuel pump fuse.
 
I'm interested in the outcome of this as went through similar in the last 5 months with a customer. Ended up being sensor related but all because of battery and battery terminal clamps. Changed fuel pump and other bits to eliminate. Diagnostic and fault delete really helped alot.
 
Update guys, currently roadside on a bypass with a rather unhappy TD5, not revving much past 1500, spluttering and chucking out smoke.

Got AA on call but a kindly fellow enthusiast/mechanic stopped. He immediately pulled the injector harness off the head and it was absolutely slick both ends.

Gave it most of a can of brake clean on all ends including ECU but not much improvement - he reckons the ecu may need pulling apart and cleaning also!
 
I know you have said the AA sprayed the harness plugs, but you need to remove the ECU and stand it on end plug side down overnight. A new harness might also be required !!
 
I'll give that a go - a new harness is being ordered today!

Do some research on the harness. There was a guy selling them with an upgraded seal and a guarantee they wouldn’t wick oil, but I can’t remember the details.
 
Missed that - literally just ordered the JGS kit whilst waiting for the flatbed! Next time. Been told a lot of folks change the harness with each service, so may add that to the list of jobs.

Will update once it is fitted and the ECU drained! Cheers guys.
 
Back
Top