Citizen Kane
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Slightly different setup as mines a Defender. When I fitted a 100 amp alternator I relocated it above the timing case and made a simple bracket with a M6 threaded rod to tension the belt.
Keep Losing Alternator belt tension
- Thread starter dag019
- Start date
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I had considered that, a lot of the secondary alternators mount there so it was a consideration but does not seem cheap and is a lot more work to diy than a simple turnbuckle so will try that first
Most v belts are either 3/8 10mm wide, or 1/2 inch 13mm wide, you want the 3/8 10mm wide version, so all you need is the length is normally printed on the belt, for example 10x 765 meaning 10mm x 765mm length.
Made a simple bracket, that mate is a work of art
bluedog333
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That was my first thought. My sort of simple bracket is a bit of flat bar hammered over in the vice.Made a simple bracket, that mate is a work of art
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As is mine, Something grabbed from the scrap pile and butchered to just about fit!
bluedog333
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defender 200tdi alternator tensioner strut - Land Rover Defender Discovery parts accesories
www.prometal-company.sk
Little update, I finally got around to looking into parts for this properly. Was cheaper to order the parts individually on ebay than get one ready made up if people are interested this is what I have bought: LINK1, LINK2, LINK3, LINK4, total price £23.08 inc postage, could have made it cheaper using nylon rod end bearing but opted for the brass versions. Even doing it this way I think it is about 10mm too long at its shortest so will need to cut down the threaded sections a little to shorten it.defender 200tdi alternator tensioner strut - Land Rover Defender Discovery parts accesories
www.prometal-company.sk
Yet to be fitted but I hoping as with the above link this will prevent the losing of tensions and mor importantly make re-tensioning a 5min job I can do on my own!
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Well some good news and some bad news to report. Having test driven home (about 20miles) everything is still good, belt is still tensioned. However on arriving home the electric fan kicked in and the battery light came on. Now the battery light is permanently on, and the rev counter (run off the W post on the alternator) only just moves to zero when ignition it turned on but does not register revs. Alternator is still spinning nicely so assume I have blown the regulator?
Other than checking if the battery is actually charging or not is there any other tests I can do before assuming its regulator.
I am in the series for a few days for an injector pump leak so would like to sort this at the seem time if possible.
Other than checking if the battery is actually charging or not is there any other tests I can do before assuming its regulator.
I am in the series for a few days for an injector pump leak so would like to sort this at the seem time if possible.
tottot
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Double check connections ?
With alternators the usual suspects are brushes and their contact rings, voltage regulator, and rectifier. How to check/repair alternators on you tube. This does mean removal and opening it up.
With alternators the usual suspects are brushes and their contact rings, voltage regulator, and rectifier. How to check/repair alternators on you tube. This does mean removal and opening it up.
Done a connection check. They are all secure and was a new loom and alternator with the rebuild after the fire about two years ago so still all good condition.
I might see how much a 100anp alternator is and swap over and repair without the vehicle being off the road. But the one I have is a hella so expect a like for like will be big money!
GRATCH
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Have you overtightened the alty belt?
tottot
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Brush pack and voltage regulator one combined on many alternators.
Unless you have some equipment on board with a heavy drain and in use for long periods on the batt there is little point in having a larger than standard alt. All it will do is charge the battery faster while loading the engine more.
Unless you have some equipment on board with a heavy drain and in use for long periods on the batt there is little point in having a larger than standard alt. All it will do is charge the battery faster while loading the engine more.
I don't think so, it is the same tension I would have put on it previously with the old slider. But surely over tensioning would effect the bearings not the charging ability? It is still spinning and not making any noises.
I have twin electric fans which have a fairly sizable draw on the when running and have a husky winch that although only used occasionally was the reason for the larger alternator. I used to have 8x 120watt spotlights on it, but they are now LED's so much lower amp draw.
tottot
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You have a need then. Your old alternator may well fix to be an on hand spare. Swapped out a non working alt for spare a while back and got around to sorting it just the other day. New rectifier and brush/voltage regulator pack for £20 + post.
If stator and armature windings are good often worth a fix. See Mid-Ulster rotating electrics for parts and new units.
If stator and armature windings are good often worth a fix. See Mid-Ulster rotating electrics for parts and new units.
