Update as promised.
My son took it out yesterday evening and drove a few roads which we have driven a thousand times. He knows what speed it would normally do and what gear it would be in. It's a mix of country, town and fast A roads with a...
It does sound like heat is the issue, vapour lock?
The weber carb kit comes with an inline fuel filter which sits directly over the manifold. If you have one I'd remove it even just fir safety reasons.
1. Check fuel tank isn't rotting from...
And just for further information for the past thirty years plus my old farm truck's chassis [ body is rough] has been treated inside and out once a year with a mix of engine oil and diesel, [compressor and spray gun] only the most minor bits of...
Realistically for the cost of the parts I'd just be doing the whole igition system... points, condenser, cap, leads, coil and plugs.
Also if you do have to dig into the carb I have some scans from a haynes manual for the Weber 32/34 DMTL...
After you have driven it and it has played up have a feel of the ignition coil. If hot likely as @Wildefalcon says above it is breaking down. Also as @kermit_rr post replace the points and condenser.
Do you have a Temperature gauge fitted?
Assuming it's petrol.
Could be evaporation of the fuel in the fuel lines.
Could be the fuel pick up pipe in the tank part blocked.
Or could be the coil breaking down.
Changed the clutch master cylinder which had been seeping for a while. When I last changed it in the 2000's I welded a square plate to the bottom master retaining bolt so it could not turn. Whole lot less bother getting it out this time.🐱 smile...
Tonight i acomplished the removal of the diff cover and bearing caps.
Tried a bit to giggle it out a bit with no luck - i might need the tool to spread the axle a bit ...
Galvanitic corrosion requires contact between dissimilar metals and an electrolyte.
Water completes the circuit between the metals. So it will have been damp, at least at some point.
Keeping the metals apart (rubber/paint) or keeping out the...
Replacing clutch master cylinder on mine today.
Have you watched any of the Salisbury diff "working on videos"?
The pan spreader in @marjon's link is the official one but it is possible to make up a simpler one. Again see Britannica...
Just do not use that bitumen based thick black underseal anywhere. In time it cracks and water gets in behind and there is hidden corrosion worse than a bare chassis.
When asked to inspect a vehicle with that stuff on it shiny new or other wise...
https://bilthamber.com/product/hydrate-80/
I prefer these products, as slightly cheaper and seem just the same.
Axles and mechanical parts use paint, Hammerite is easily available, not sure why you would use underseal on them.
Paint them and use...
Soak with plus gas/RP90 or similar release agent and Breaker bar. Heat is also often your friend.
Wall is not your friend but at least you can pull the diff now and inspect the shafts inner end later.
Simple solution is to use a clear wax. Even the galvanized chassis will benefit from the protection. They do corrode but just a lot slower than painted steel and a coating of wax will help keep the look you like.
Solutions to prevent bimetalic corrosion have been around for years, both paint and materials to place between the different metals. It is just that vehicle makers do not bother.
I recon the most vehicle owners do to limit corrosion some is wash them and often the most important bits are ignored anyway.
Went to see a Focus for a daughter. Shiny on the outside with hardly a mark. Inside very tidy and she was enamoured...
Great write-up. The new Defender is also a big miss for me. Nothing remotely appealing it at all, and I've been a LR fan for 50 years. I also find it one of the strangest looking vehicles on the road. The 90 isn't too bad, but the 110 is hideous...
MOT no advisories! Yea right, not a proper mot.
If you can yourself a good tap around with a little hammer will soon show up any serious issues. If not take to someone who can. Quite a bit of crusty stuff down there, spring pan by exhaust looks...
Given that the diff is welded the same amount of torque will have gone to the other shaft as well, however such breakages often happen when a wheel has bounced high in the air and the power is still on when it lands back down.
The other shaft...