tottot's latest activity

That half shaft has had a tremendous amount of torque put through it for that to happen. I have known the stub in the diff to have welded itself in place from the heat generated as shaft twists apart. Given the welded diff and because of that...

Update - thanks all, put everything back to basics and tuned it by ear with a gunson for RPM. Plugs seem nice a brown so will check back after a longer run

Yes that input shaft bolt was an odd one, recon most of time for change was spent looking for through my collection for one.

Yes, my record was 15 minutes from the car park, do the clutch, put it back in the car park, and clock off the job. I was one of the slower mechanics in the workshop at the time. The thread in the hollow input shaft youmentioned was a bit of an...

In that case likely it is a box from a 2 or early 2a.

Std rings are available https://www.paddockspares.com/rtc6457-piston-rings-std-200tdi.html Unless I am missing something with your piston number? J

The "A" suffix at the end of the stamped in number of the box denotes it is [any cast numbers are not serial numbers] an early one from the 54 to 66 period. The very early ones had the suffix near the gearstick position then later suffix is to be...

As an ex mod 110 engine likely a 12j 2.5 non turbo diesel. There is a second plug hole in the base of timing belt housing for the same reason.

Are you ready for this? We are talking standard transmission units here. There were changes to series one box's during production and there were changes to series 2a ones as well. Times the transmission remained the same were from Series one 86...

That is the clutch housing and the hole should be open in normal use. Any oil coming out here will be the result of a crankshaft rear seal leak. A plug is fitted if deep water wading is expected. If truck still has tool kit plug may be in it.

Mk 2 Cavalier, Simplest ever clutch change. On the front wheel drive gearbox/engine housing bottom there was a half moon plate that gave access to the clutch. First you tapped in some clips to squeeze the unit up some so it would be narrow enough...

Ah yes. My Citroen ZX. Took all Saturday to remove the dashboard. EVENTUALLY! Haynes manual said to remove dash, SOD THAT thought i so commenced removing bits because i wasn't going to remove the whole dash. Until i did! Then discovered the new...

No mate, Land Rovers right up to the end of original Defender have a transmission Hand brake on the back of the transfer box, and therefore acts on the prop shaft. Works fine as long as both rear wheels are on the ground or with series if it is...

Will try to remove the diff rear plate and check it out tommorow. Thank you all for the help and sorry about the not so good written English, I am writting on a smartphone and it is not my native language :)

When you get the broken shaft out just do not bother with a replacement until you find another axle or decide to fix the diff you have. At least it will not scrub on the corners, after all that is how it has been working for some time. I would...

Yes, i have all the brackets fitted. I can't see any movement in the brakets themselves, the whole lot moves brackets, steering box and bulkhead. I'll have a good check of all fixings in the morning and report back. Thanks

Good news, your rover diff will be a spare for the front axle.

Wrong that’s a Salisbury axle which is correct for the 109

If you remove the cross pin and then it may be possible to smack out the gears [ could be torched out ] Bevel/planetary gear set available.

It can be the metal at the inner end of the shaft has turned [burred] over as a result of it being driven while still having the broken shaft in place. It may hammer out but removing the hub and the stub axle may well be the best answer.

If that diff is welded you will need a new one or at least a set of the bevel gears.

That diff doesn't look welded to me.

I honestly think this is the best piece of advice I have ever read or heard anywhere, and I wish id had someone say that to me when I was in my early 20's. It's what I've done with my 90 for the past 10 years, and what I should have done with my...

Aha, as @Wildefalcon noted a 79 series 3 should have a heavy duty Salisbury rear axle but yours has a Rover axle/diff. Diff itself looks OK in pic and 10/24 shaft will get you going. To have driven it home with a broken half shaft it must have...

As the pedal box is moving the whole bulkhead has to be moving, have a look where it mounts to the chassis out riggers.

Rear diff soldered ? If you have both wheels off the ground and in gear/hand brake on you should be able to turn both wheels. This is because the diff will be doing its job.[one on the other side goes in reverse] If out of gear hand brake off...

Half shafts are of fully floating type so some movement expected although there is usually a shim washer between hub and circlip.

The oily mess all over the box may well have blown back from the engine bay. You need to do a good clean up/pressure wash. Can see an oil dribble from the selector area. there are seals on those shafts that can be replaced, just a few bolts to...

You want SAE90 that's yellow metal safe for earlier boxes, it is will erode synchro rings and and brass bushes

Likely not had any oil changes for ages. Nice thing with a series is gearbox, transfer box and axles all use the same 80/90 gear oil.