Recent content by sierrafery
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Hi, it's a gearbox out job in which case you better replace both the crankshaft seal and gearbox input seal... once the box is out it's not so hard
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the same part, P comes from "pattern" aka cheaper aftermarket
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Yes it was, you have to replace the BCU, this needs programming with nanocom or similar or contact https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133115857675
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I'm glad your saga has ended 🙏... though remember next time to not overthink simple things, i'm not a fan of the "i told you so" attitude but now i can't help myself to not remind you my first reply in this thread(and fortunately i insisted) :)...
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Was that on with the old fusebox too?
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and are they all OK?
Forget about that as my mind was set for a D2, for Defender check C0362 to be well connected and continuity to the round light grey plug with one black wire behind the modulator... if all these are OK there is a bad contact on the SVS input to the ECU or ECU fault
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I dont know what that plug is for but did you check the switch pack's resistances in all 3 positions before the wiring mod?
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Hi, i've just seen this... how did you make the option B? did you cut out the switch pack's plug and prolonged out the wires or you spliced into them with connector left there? Some sch,ucks whodont really understand how this system work posted tutorials on the net with wires spliced into the...
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That's the best thing to do cos the ECU is very suspect now
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I could have bet they would based on what you said before about slightly unplugged connector while you had good live stationary readings.
It's not supoosed to be any live with ignition off at the ABS sensor only 5V on one wire and between 2 - 2.3V on the other with ignition on... though to be...
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In general you are spot on except this:
the corrections are:
1. if it's a variation in speed signal caused by the gap while it's still within the accepted margin there will be no warning lights just the active braking modes will be mixed up in most cases TC or ABS erratic behaviour
2. once the...
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Hi. You have to pedal bleed it well first as the master cylinder to pump fluid through the modulator, that's compulsory, just after that start to power bleed,... and in the correct order as in the book not randomly
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Start with the towbar socket, check for corrosion, the LH and RH tail lamps have different earth points while the RH brake lamp shares the earth with the high mounted one if you see what i mean