sierrafery's latest activity

Even though the readings look OK unplug the MAF and drive it so for test.... is the EGR bypassed?

You might not notice it if you are not used to a well running Td5 driven with nervs. As long as you have the AAP fault code logged the ECU is on default for that specific code and one of the symptoms is "boost limited to 1 bar" so without correct...

See live stationary voltage inputs... if they are all similar or very close(between 2 - 2.3v) the problem is most probably the hub, if the one with the code is out of that it's a wiring issue ...or ECU misbehaviour

Check the MAP/IAT sensor. Mine did that. With help from on here I checked the data while it was running which proved that even though clean, it was fubar.

Just to say thank you Fery, problem sorted (till the next time!!) I hadn't seen the bit about swapping the relays but that did the trick. Strange as there was no sign, or smell of any burning or damage but anyway, changing it worked. I was all...

The cat is on the downpipe, removing the rest of the exhaust is unlikely to make any difference to a blocked cat.

Try Gates or Contitech

I dont know such mechanical stuff but isn't the numbering through the spyhole about the firing order? i said injector 5 meaning the last from front to rear where there is no glow plug... it's good to know though how carbon can behave in such cases

If that pump related fault code keeps coming back after ignition there is a problem on that path which must be diagnosed properly and repaired, it seems that the fault is recognised only on the system's ignition self test, simply clearing the...

The oddity was that looked like factory fitted and was rock solid while on the other 4 was completely different and softer like this

Hi, what makes you think that the Nano 1 is not giving the correct code? the EVO is not the best with ABS faults so i'd buy a Foxwell beside the Nano 1 if only the ABS is your concern... Unplug one ABS sensor and read codes that way and if Nano 1...

And thank u sierraferry I did understand after reading those pdfs properly

Hallelujah SHE RUNS , I'd had a mouse visitor previous owner had left loads of blue roll after wiping dipstick next to fuse box and said mouse was starting to make a nest and the only wire it had eaten was the return fro. The inertia switch...

So after working on my roof I went to pay my Bill when a lovely woman in her little Ford smacked me in the passanger door, it didnt look a lot but the door was dificult to close any way a quick search round and I and I managed to get a Scrap...

Mystery solved after a divine intervention :)... that black "seal-shape" thing was petrified carbon deposit, the one with the gap is normal ... it was injector nr.5 so the missing glow plug might have some effect too.

It's explained clear enough in both docs i sent you(diagrams and electricall ibrary) in the introduction but you must use acrobat reader to see them properly and go dirctly to where yoiu need... for example in the "charging and starting" diagram...

the connector views are from the pins/cavities side and for each pin there is the wire colour code... read the user guides in the diagrams file and HERE if you want troubleshoot yourself such things

Bizarre indeed... the pics came from a friend of mine, the pics are after he removed the old washers, i dont know much about these things cos when it comes to such jobs i pay my mechanic... i searched a lot by p/n and didnt find a pic from that...

Yes that would be the good move, then unplug C0605(maybe it's just bad contact in it) and check continuity from pin 3 to inertia switch, if interrupted rewire that one, if you have continuity the probem is within the fusebox, you must have...

Hi all. The injectors were removed from the same engine... how comes that the first one has a kind of gap around the nozzle where the washer fits and the other has like a seal??? the other 3 are all like the first one with the gap :oops:, am i...

No such thing Yes, it should at least start and idle on LP but if you start it with spray and the injectors are opening it must idle even without HP, if it dies after it burns the spray means that the injectors are closed Thast's not very...

Yes, the power from F13 through the inertia switch one side and earth from ECU the other

Hi, I recommend KYB brand, very good quality/price ratio and not very expensive: Example for rear

You have to check in the main relay coil's cavities what's missing, the power or the earth to see why it's not closing on ignition and if it's missing the power it can be a problem in the fusebox if F13 is not blown eventually check if there is...

Part of it cos the it's full name is XYZW switch in reality (attached) the inertia switch closes to power from F13 to relay's coil the ECU delivers the earth to main relay and the BCU gives earth to starter relay(cuts it when immobilised) so if...

Foxwell NT 520 or 530 or 510 Elite for Land rover which ever you find cheaper, for example THIS which is the cheapest i know with free shipping, it came to me in one week, seems that UK sellers are more expensive... it's better for SLABS than...

Hi. Presuming it's about a D2(cos there are other 4L petrol discos as well) better buy an affordable diagnostic tool(e.g Foxwell which is good except the engine management where it has some glitches) rather than struggling with multimeter all...

As long as it's the same p/n means it must be fully programmable for any vehicle specs which were fitted with that one IMO, any upgrades or mods would come with a p/n supersession, that's how it works

did you try to connect it to SLABS or autobox ECU too and you get the same message? ACE has nothing to do with that...if the pump doesnt run are you sure is not dead? what if you bridge the pump relay? cand you hear it then?

Charge the battery to full and check the inertia switch to not be unplugged/disturbed or tripped... the immobiliser has nothing to do with that cos immobilised = no crank to which ECU? did you try to access all of them and no comms at all?