Definitely P38 and 2001
I started to doubt the pressure gauges but I went to the guy and checked, everything is correct. This explains why the pump had to be repaired so often. In the end, I put a non-original ring on the pump, which I took from...
+1 on the compressor limit. Even with a gauge directly on the pump outlet, I've never seen more than 190psi. Hence why I asked if it was definitely a P38.
Every time I've tested... maybe on 3 different green pressure valves, they've stopped the compressor at 150psi on the dot.
I'd have thought the compressor itself would have given up the ghost by 200psi!
I don't know how accurate my pressure...
Yes they look reasonable to me. Voltage difference could either be differences in the sensor tolerances, or maybe slightly different supply voltage due to contact resistance in the connectors. You could try swapping the snsors over to see if...
Yes they are tight. Old bushes are about 49.85mm dia. The arms are about 49.7mm internal, but are about 0.25,, bigger on one side measured with my vernier. New bushes are 50.2mm even after freezing overnight.
So heated the arm ends a bit &...
Not sure what the valve block seals will handle, but if it really if getting that high, check the pressure relief valve. It should blow off above 180psi.
Absolutely correct. There are loads of electrical noise sources in cars, hence why the HK Audio uses balanced audio connections & have each amplifier grounded. Most likely that car has corroded connectors in the footwells . . . where the...
Aircraft use quality connectors not the crap tin plate connectors used on P38's. Look at LZ over time and corroded connector's crop up time and again. JLR and their predecessors are only interested in the vehicle surviving for 3 to 5 years what...
The clicking is no doubt the result of corroded connectors somewhere and nothing to do with FMEA checks that cannot possibly show the result of 20 years plus of deterioration.
Yes. Test it first if you can. They are available, but make sure it's the closed above 140psi type. Many are the other way round.
I'm guessing you're Estonian ? Put your town name or local region in your profile !!
How had the timing slipped? tensioner/belt etc.
How did you lock/tome the crankshaft?
Interference engine so anything less than perfect could be bad news.
Black smoke suggests it's getting fuel. Personally, I would do a compression test because if the timing slipped, there may be valve damage. You could try a squirt of Easy Start to see if it will fire.
Yes . . .. are you talking P38 ?
For a P38 EAS It should run from zero until 140psi (or thereabouts). Then as pressure drops it starts again around 120psi. If pumping an empty system, it will stop periodically to put air into the airbags...
Yet more rubbish statements about cause & effect from you eh ?
If your head unit is disconnect, and the speaker amps are still active, then somebody has been messing with the wiring. It will let you down at some point, wherever you happen...
Removed both rear trailing arms & pressed out the knackered bushes today. That bit wasn't too bad. Replacement bushes are a fraction of a mm larger. Tried chamfering one end, but my press keeps pushing them to one side.
Now got them...
The file should open in either Notepad or Excel. Nanocom CSV format is not quite correct because BBS are still using semi-colons rather than commas to separate the variables.