pwood999's latest activity

Yes. BTW, as well as one of the connectors, it could also be a bulb failure in the cluster. There's two bulbs, & if one fails the other SRS light stays on.

Any Nanocom for P38 should read the SRS system. Only the engine ECU's require unlock codes. If you want to pop up to Langley I could take a quick look. No promises on fixes though. Most likely it's a bad connection on one of the seat...

After the engine warms up, do a recording to the SD-Card for the ECU Inputs screen. Then upload the CSV file here so we can look at the live data.

Also you didn't state your actual issue in the titel or first post ?? Has it failed MOT on emissions, or you have CAT's with no internals & want to adjust the fuelling to pass the MOT ? P38 sensors are Pre-CAT so only tell the ECU what's...

Can't help with SDD or GAP, but I like this phrase. :)

How long have you had the vehicle and from where did you buy it (private sale/dealership etc) ? I’m presuming in this instance you are in UK pertaining to British consumer acts

If it's a Thor motor, the O2 sensors should flip between 0V to 1V. If it's not a Thor, then you are using the wrong Nanocom menus !! Long term adaptations should adjust over several drive cycles to get the fueling in the right ballpark. Short...

When you've done your nails, pop round & help Roy !!

Check if the existing O2 sensors are working first. Although it usually recommended not to clean them, I've had good results in the past using carb cleaner on O2 sensors. Make sure the connectors are properly clean, as their position either...

Well after giving me the run around for a few days I think I've got to the bottom of it. I swapped out my valve block for a re-furbed one I had on the shelf, and also cleaned up and renewed the o rings on the drier that I observed bubbling with...

Good question !! Cut to fit but can measure and will post.

12V (batt +) on pin-1 & 0V (batt -) on pin-3 briefly wathcing which way the window goes. If it tries to go down, reverse the wires. The other pins are used by the outstation & BECM for blockage / trap detection, so you don't need them for...

You don't. Simply connect 12V to the motor until the window reaches the top & disconnect the wires. Start by applying 12V for 1-2 seconds & see which way the window moves. Do it in stages makinbg sure you disconnect at the top to avoid...

If you search for the connector number it shows you. C1565 on page 590 of that link you posted. SW & SG are the wire colours (page 14) if you need to identify the pins.

What size was the skirting & wood blocks ?

Then it's not the complete version. My copy is 5199 pages, but the ISO version is much easier to navigate. There's a website here with all the PDF's from RAVE...

Electrical Troubleshooting section. Try searching the PDF for "Power Windows". Then skip to page 1590 or thereabouts.

It's the left one in this picture . . . . . but an Auto probably will not have the wiring for it.

As said in post #4 you really need to download RAVE. It's all in there. Hint 1 & 3

If you re-test the brake switch using a multimeter, you should see the 0-12V & 12V-0V switch on both contacts immediately. Nanocom takes a few seconds to register the state, hence why you might sometimes see open-open & closed-closed. Remember...

Another thought or two. Does the handbrake light work ? Maybe a bulb failure there causes the other two to light up ? Also have you re-checked wheel bearings, CV joint & the sensors are properly pushed in ?

Two more things to verify: 1) Do the mirrors move correctly or are they also not working ? 2) Does the car lock & unlock normally ? Either of both of these require power to the door outstations, so if they are working then you probably have 12V...

1) is the issue on all windows or only 1 or 2 ? 2) Probably not a good idea to "short circuit" anything. You can apply 12V directly to the motor, but unplug it first. 3) For the one-touch window closing, rather than the fob, try with the key...

For the connections from ABS to BECM, there are three wires in addition to the K-Line to the diagnostic connector. Looking in the Nanocom & BECM SID documents, these are what the signals are for. It is not clear in any of the documents if the...

Rather than the Utility menu, what are the Inputs doing ? Check them when stationary and up to 5mph & then >> 5mph.

icarsoft CR Max does not do P38 settings. Their "coverage" says it does most of the ECU's but I have tried it, and it has limited coverage. It also identified the AT box as diesel, but gets the engine correct as GEMS !! Nothin else...

Agreed. Maybe they could be weeping as they cool down. If the smoke stays away when warmed up, MOT should be ok, but gotta do the rear brake lines first.

Interesting thought. Perhaps I could take them out & attach an airline to see if there's any bubbles at the tips, which might indicate a weep. Saying that, none of the them showed any leakage on my jar test above & that was with the fuel...

A P38 that needs welding ?

Yes that video was after it cleared. Still need to repeat my 5 mile round-trip drive & see if the fuel economy has improved since the previous test. Car isn't insured at the moment, so need to do a 1-day insure to road test it.