pwood999's latest activity

Yes mine still works. Had to re-gas a few months back dues to leaking compressor, but all good now.

https://www.copilotsearch.com/posts/land-rover-range-rover-velar-years-to-avoid/

Did mine the other way round. RTV to stick them to the covers & then put them on the heads.

Just check if either spade connector on the new horn is grounded to the metal. If not either way round should work ? Try it on battery first.

https://thecarguy.com.au/velour-no-range-rover-velar-si6/

Isn't the velour some sort of Ejoke ??

RAVE All Models includes the 2003 version. Most of it will probably be the same.

The original horn connector could also be similar to injector connectors ? I'm a long way from my P38's at the moment (Gran Canaria), but will look when I get home.

No replace them with the EAS system !!

Prob best to search for Wood Veneer services. Or try asking Mike Brewer on his facebook page ??

As long as it will mix with what is in there without turning to jelly. I'd just top up with distilled water until the problem is sorted then drain ad refill with any antifreeze approved for alloy engines which is almost all. Anti freeze should...

This problem needs sorting as well. Might as well add it to the list !!

My two 1998 GEMS have different exhaust system. Green on has the usual dual tail pipe. Blue one has single tail pipe & sounds throatier. The only real physical difference is the section after the centre silencer box. Both are as I bought them.

Yes. What's "aintgreen" ?? Do you mean not a green one.

I'd have to look up the date, but my replacement O rings have lasted at least 12 years so far. That's jinxed it :rolleyes:

You can just see the KM on the cluster. Def looks like a much earlier model than 2000 & GEMS engine !! Don't like the brown inside.

+1 on this "read the code in the EDC and write it to the BECM."

If the dash is not asking for the EKA code then I doubt it's that. As Brian said, needs a security re-learn, read the code in the EDC and write it to the BECM.

Find something to hold the clutch from rotating & release centre nut or bolt. Then wriggle the clutch a bit & it should come off.

You need to measure at the battery rather than using diagnostics.

There are people out there than can do replacement keys & fobs. My son had a guy based in Bedford that programmed a FoB & spare keys for his 2004 FL1 TD4.

If it's a "temporary import for repair", then you should normally get the duties back when it leaves the UK again. Same with VAT. Had the same thing a few years back shipping Motorola demo kit to various non-EU countries. It a case of getting...

If he wants £500 for a £300 hub, then he's either ripping you off, or got a good discount on a genuine LR one ??

Hard to correlate. With the engine is running the EAS should see the charging voltage, unless there's some voltage drop between the fusebox & the EAS. Keith's capacitor mod should remove any spikes & glitches on the 12V supply. On mine...

+1 the dash always beeps & displays the message when connecting EAS diagnostics. Same applies to Nanocom & EASunlock software. Always use either the "Stop" button in EASunlock, or exit the menus on Nanocom before disconnecting the cable.

Could also be intermittent connection in the pins & sockets inside the connector between driver pack & solenoids. The fix is to de-pin them one at a time & gently squeeze the sockets so they grip the pins properly. But do the capacitor mod...

RAVE Manuals have all the diagrams, wire colours & pin numbers..

Diff rubbing noise is more likely the mounts. Never heard a diff making a rubbing noise . . . . usually it's a whine.

Surely if you put schrader valves on the airlines to the airsprings, then there was no point where there could be a "leak in a part of the system common to all springs". Or did you use t-pieces & retain the valve block connections ?

Dunno if it's me, but I can't see much except a batmobile ??