pwood999's latest activity

I wonder how many other modern oil burners the same applies to ?

Also check the starter relay RL16 is engaging & sending 12V to the starter solenoid. You could also try bridging the relay to see if the starter engages. If not, then crawl under & check the starter !!

RAVE "All Models Version" has sections for V8 & TD6 covering both LHD & RHD. It's also to navigate than that website above. Main difference between LHD & RHD, seems to be the RHD says to lift the engine to clear the mounts so you can access...

My mates wife had one for a while. She liked driving it, but got rid because there was only room for very small kids in the back seat, and the boot was tiny. They couldn't even get two standard holiday suitcases in there.

AFAIK both mine are still on the original sensors, and working fine. At £39 plus VAT each from Island4x4, I will just replace when required !! With digital sensors & Arduino you would still need to figure out weather & road crap proofing...

The modern penchant for making something simple into something complicated with much more to go wrong. If I was going to do away with resistive sensors, I would be looking a piezo.

Similar "on the ground" applies to wheelnuts (until I got my DeWalt) !! I've always laughed at people that jack the car first & then try to loosen them with the usual car wheel wrench. This is the one I have . . . . bit of an animal, but...

On earlier Wabco-C, the live data only works at slow speeds. I think the limit is 5mph, but it could be 5kph ? Not got one, but I heard Wabco-D gives live data at higher speeds.

Remove the centre cap on the wheel & with wheel on the ground. Then make sure your socket goes through, use either long breaker bar of decent ratchet gun. I span the hub nuts off my son's FL1 TD4 easily with my DeWalt 18V 1/2" impact.

If the front drive is fecked, then it does sound like the VCU is working ok. I would just take the VCU off & bench test it. Clamp one side in vice & turn the other with a pry bar.

I would check with other garages. If the turbos are £1000 each (refurbs probably less & most have 24 month warranty), then they are either marking them up or charging a lot for labour. Might be worth giving these people a call...

How often does it roll forwards ?

Do you know if the BECM is Locked or Unlocked ? If it's Unlocked go into BECM-Settings-alarm, and scroll to the last page. If the EKA shows as dashes, it's locked . . . .but you might see the EKA there ? Also when you disabled alarm &...

BECM might not actually disable the Immobiliser while it's waiting for EKA ? Cannot be 100% sure on this. Sounds like the FOB is sending a code the BECM accepts ? If the fob was wrong or BECM corrupt, I think it would say this...

Another question about the slight play in the front flange bearing. Looking at the exploded diagrams, it seem the centre diff has two bearings, but the flange relies on one bearing & whatever tolerances exits between it and the diff splines ...

Definitely only need gradual acceleration. The whine was quite obvious before.

It should not kill the VCU but best not to put the pedal to the metal.

ok thanks Keith. Do you think I would be ok for a short drive up to 40-50mph, or is that gonna kill the VCU ? Only need 1 mile round trip to get out of the 30 zone.

BTW, I'm assuming with front prop removed there's nothing to strain the VCU because the output flange just spins ? Therefore I should be able to safely check for rear diff whine at higher speeds ? Rear prop off & driving with front prop only...

[update] Took it for short drive round the block with front prop removed & see if the whine is still there. Can't hear it up to 30mph, so I'm thinking of taking front diff out the check it while it's accessible. (Yes I did put nuts & washers...

Been chasing down the cause of my drivetrain whine (and new rumble) today, so started with front propshaft. The UJ at the transfer box definitely needs replacing, so will do them all as it doiesn't cost much. There also seems to be slight play...

Nanocom Evolution with Green Cable for all models of P38. Licenses are specific for EDC, GEMS or Motronic. Price depends on whether you're inside EU or VAT free !! https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/shop/browse There's also some used on...

Given that you replaced the SRS ECU, did you ever run diagnostics on it ? Might tell you if the crash sensors are good or bad ?

Earlier P38 cruise (AMR1173) does the "accelerate hard on resume" thing. The later version (AMR5700) I installed recently is much more gentle. Haven't tried the different tune settings on the later ECU, but maybe your MK3's have the wrong...

Probably same as what my old Green P38 was doing . . . .intermittent contacts in the plug for the motors. Replaced a few of the contacts and all working fine now. £9.40 on eBay incl. postage.

And for those that don't know, the Recirculation motors are attached to the fans . . . . . not heater box. Rumour is they are also almost impossible to access !

Keith is correct the Blend & Distribution motors are all identical. The only difference is what pins they connect to on the HEVAC ECU and the colour ident on the cables !

What pictures do you need ? I have a complete heater box on the bench ready for my Blue P38 when I take the dash out, so I can take pictures later today when I'm home.

Here you go. will let you pick the correct one !!

Just search for the text above on eBay. BMW 3 SERIES E46 REAR WIPER MOTOR