Recent content by NPG

IPA is good but it needs to be diluted, commonly at a1:1 ratio with distilled water. Make sure the metal is cold and avoid direct sunlight during application. Also, most of the clear top coating would have been dissolved so follow up with a protective wax coating.

This is how I found them when I took mine off - a picture of an original clip as fitted at the factory, still attached to the frame. Hope this helps.

If I were you at this stage, I would unplug everything from the engine harness except for those components needed to give you a baseline configuration, just enough to turn the engine. Off the top of my head, this would include the ECU, the starter motor + solenoid and of course the battery. I...

Alternatively you can try using a compass while the heater is on and take note when the needle stops deflecting, which is where you have no current flow.

Ironically there are times when it pays for a factory installed light to NOT work in order to make it through the annual inspection. I don't know how things are elsewhere but over here, the vehicle will fail if presented with functioning side marker lights (i.e. those incorporated in the front...

I personally never encountered this kind of situation and I've used numerous oil brands over the years for the same spec of oil - semi-synth 5W-30 [ACEA A1 & B1] . However there could be some truth in your observations as I did come across reports in other forums where users started experiencing...

The OP seems to suggest that the oil level is going down which I would think would be the opposite if the injector seals are leaking. Given the smoky exhaust and because the oil leak seems to get worse the higher the workload, I am inclined to say it's a turbo seal. But start with the basics...

I suppose it's what you need to get out of a sticky situation when on ice at high altitude (been there, done that - and it's embarrassing in a Best 4x4xfar ;)). Will certainly look into it. Many thanks SF.

For the military Defender aficionados out there, here's a link to the parts cat and info on the vehicles used by the UK MoD and NATO Corps (declassified) - https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/media/5a7f681140f0b62305b86f50/FOI2016-00702_2320-D-128-711_Final.pdf Enjoy

Interesting. Wouldn't mind keeping a can of this in the vehicle just in case. I will be doing some further reading but from your own experience, what's the typical distance covered with a single application ? Tx

You might want to consider using a decent multitool with a carbide blade

Colour is also a good indicator of fluid quality. I've also seen claims that UV from sunlight causes fluid degradation. Never came across any scientific tests that provide evidence of this but I once did have Halfords DOT4 fluid, which came in a black 5L container with a recommendation to store...

I use one of these to take the guesswork out when trying to determine the quality of the fluid in the vehicle and in containers, even those that are still sealed. It is normal for it to report water content >4% when testing fluid that has been in the vehicle for 2 years or so. Which is precisely...

If this is the first time you're doing this, it's a good idea to also have the following before you start any work - a. 2 x brass filler plugs for the diffs if the ones you have installed are plastic (FTC5403) b. Gearbox drain plug sealing washer (FTC4112) c. A manual oil pump such as this one...

I could only find the following online. It's for a D1 300Tdi spec but I'm thinking they should work for yours. I agree that the torque seems uncomfortably low for a steering ball joint but it appears that Haynes is right.