When you do the fronts you may need new shocks & turret rings on the shopping list.
Same process as the rear(remove roll bar if there’s 1) stands under chassis, remove panard rod can make life easier.
Removed the cover off the top of the injection pump and the boost diaphragm is immaculate with no holes or splits whatsoever. It did have oil on top however but I suspect this is from years ago when my head gasket failed and the engine ran away...
make sure the stands holding the chassis are strong.. raise these up so you can get a lot of droop.
Remove anti roll bar(easiest is normally at the D rubbers )
Trolley jack up the oposite axle & it should drop the axle low enough to remove the...
I'll need to get the top off the injection pump and check as I think that's all it can be now. I'll blow through the fuel lines and make sure they're clear, after that there shouldn't be any problem or blockage right up to the filter so the...
Pressure looks fine. Thats not been tweaked.
Is the boost pin seized?
Could you rig up a small fuel tank under the bonnet direct to lift pump.will rule out blockages from main tank.
I hate these little faults which are hard to trace
Some readers will know the LH front radius arm thread is...knackered:
So I picked up a pair of secondhand arms from another local restorer/enthusiast fellow. A snip at £20 for the pair.
One of the very first jobs I did as a MoD apprentice was...
Got a bit more done this morning, cam chain and sprockets off, rocker assemblies, pushrods, followers, cam, valley gasket and both heads. The head bolts were the tightest thing i've ever had to undo, broke one socket but managed to get it done...
Met @meego yesterday and had a look over it and found what seemed to be an embarrassingly simple fix to my steering rattle problem. Turns out one of the bolts on the top steering column UJ was loose as well as play in the front left side wheel...
Well, the "What did you do today ..." thread is not the best place to track all the wiring stiry. So here an update and summary so far:
All cables are identified and the routing as well. The rear harness is in, the main harness passes...
Damn, forgot one thing. The electric wondows are removed. So I need at least a manual one for the driver side befire I can go to pass TÜV. Ordered one of eBay, we'll see when they are delivered. Hopefully next week!
If you're over this way again lemme know, would be great to tag along!
I've done this same lane a few times, but only the downward way like you, and I too did the sensible bit at the waterfall.
Cracking little lane, and a few more around the area! 😊
Just to close this out, I removed the cylinder head. The head gasket had lost its integrity and was allowing combustion pressure into the coolant. All fixed with a head clean up and a new gasket.
Just a thought. Is it worth making the preload too heavy and try it for a short drive ? I’m not sure it could, but just in case the load is becoming lighter when it’s back on its wheels for some reason. If no difference you can just set them back...
Hi again returning old member I've had 3 disco's and a p38 in the past and now
I've just bought myself a doerupper.
M reg series 3 swb requiring lots of work not had a series before so putting the alert out prepare for lots of stupid questions 😀😀👍