Suppose you’d only need to strip the damaged parts but getting it match would be difficult. Sort of thing stranger wouldn’t notice but for you it would be constantly itching away.
Years ago you used to get people would come round tune your piano...
Maybe one for @pwood999 ?
I used my horn the other day and wasn't very impressed. Then I heard @MrGorsky 's horn and it didn't sound like mine. A little investigation revealed my right hand horn was a) loose and b) not working.
If you take the...
Strictly speaking it was yesterday but I changed the oil in the final drive units. Rear wasn't bad but the front was a grey emulsion. No sign of oil getting past the seals and the breather is fine yet it looks like water got in. I have done a lot...
As RRDT suggested they may have been trying to get a later / earlier sensor to work.
Other option is that they had Arnot 3 springs and longer shocks at some stage for greater articulation and had to extend all the sensor wires.
Very rare to need topping up. Follow the rear brake lines down, especially where they cross over the rear axle. Check for any dampness. If you have stainless steel braided flexis then check the ends for weeping.
Have to admit I cleaned out the rust and then whacked on a load of grease to try and protect it the last time I did mine. Didn't have any stonechip paint left!
Got the RL off too. Much the same condition. No real signs of perishing. Will Keep as a spare.
Spent the rest of the time cleaning underneath and rust treatment of what little corrosion there seems to be.
Yes I did that last time, will do this time too. The pins/clips came out easily. A crow bar and a push down on top managed to work the spring out.
Made 2013 29th week, not perished. Good to keep as emergency spare. Now to the other side.
For the RF receiver, disconnect the antenna wire only. Then the fob will work right next to the right rear window where the antenna is.
Definitely sort the door locks. Could be failed motors or microswitches.
Yeah thats pretty much the conclusion i came to too. Itll work to run a normal cut ring and pinion in the front but its gonna be abit more noisey and wear faster and be weaker(but the fact thats its only an 8 tooth pinion makes it way stronger...
yes the valley gasket first, you've really got to push it down quite hard so the ports line up, the rubber gasket at each end, with the clamps holding them in place
dont tighten the clamp bolts until the inlet manifold is torqued up
Cut my oil pipes and replaced with compression fittings and new rubber pipe. All seems good.
Swapped out the oil and filter. The price of oil at the usual suspects was silly money so 20 litres of Smith & Allan fully synthetic heavy duty truck...