Recent content by Flossie

Take that blend motor off, its only 2 screws and it pulls off. The drive is D shaped so you can't put it back wrong. However, don't turn on the ign until it's refitted.

That's (another) new one I didn't know about. Just a case of snipping a wire or two at an accessible part of the loom or latch out job?

What's the story behind why you decided to replace the master etc. Was the clutch OK before or not? Slave will fit either way to the bell housing but the nipple has to face up to be correct.

Bet your clutch fork has punched through. Remove the slave and measure how much pushrod is poking out . Edit...or the master pushrod might be over adjusted...not sure on that but there needs to be a slight amount of clearance before the pedal moves the pushrod in the master, view through the...

Open both front doors, 4 screws sorta hidden behind the rubber seal, remove them and rest the trims on the door. Using a thin bladed paint scraper, from the top, slide it under the trim and move the plastic clips to the passenger side(rhd car). That releases the trim. Open the roof rack slots...

Bend the arm up for your issue.

You can bend the arm that the float attaches to. Drain the tank, remove the sender then put, say, 5 ltrs of fuel in then mess with the arm, refitting it temporarily, until you are happy with what the gauge is showing.

Welcome, we like pictures, put pictures up. :vb-wavey:

I can't remember exactly cos it's been a while but... there is a bolt , high up, on the lhs rear heat shield, that once removed, allows the heat shield to move over loads, improving access no end. I think I had to cut that bolt off as it was so rusty, seem to recall it was one of those stupid...

I think peeps are getting the engine under tray mixed up with the gearbox one. My engine one was soaked in oil when I got it, ripped the foam off that but haven't got round to refitting it. My mate with a diesel has not refitted his gearbox under tray as he wrecked it getting it off, there is no...

A drop in replacement for the door micro switches would be useful. Some geezer on another p38 forum was 3d printing something which he claimed to be successful then went awol with no further info.

Interesting. Some clever peeps on here.

Jumper earth to mounting flange, jumper positive to the solenoid nut furthest away from the starter body. Spade terminal with a length of wire to the spade on the solenoid. Touch that wire to the positive jump lead clamp to spin the starter. No spin? Connect the positive jump lead to the nut on...

Shiny new sender, gave the tank a coat of some left over green chassis paint someone gave me a few yrs ago. Clashes a bit with the silver chassis .