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Read the owners hand book. There's a bit of a knack using the key/screwdriver to get it to engage.

You can fit the later over centre type spring, can't remember if you need to change the pedal as well. Another option is a servo which is more involved. Oh, and welcome, best put your questions in the 90/110 forum.

People who run veg or bio use it to aid starting in winter, called mis fuel in those circles. I would have it but I don't know where you are, otherwise list it as miss fuel on market place or some such site and a vegger might be near? I've used up to 10% petrol in my 200tdi in the past but 5%...

It stays on until fitted.

No, the spring movement of the ign switch would trigger the relay. You don't need or have a timer at the moment. Timers we're just a modern convenience like auto chokes, electric handbrakes and other unnecessary stuff.

The resister I mentioned is on the bulkhead engine side, nothing to see behind the clocks other than the thick cable direct from the ign switch which can go straight to the first glow plug, number 4 cylinder. That cable, for the original engine, would have gone to that resister on one side then...

Does the thick brown cable from the ign switch go to a resister on the bulkhead? It's a curly spring looking thing in a bracket, cable from that goes onto the glows. That thing isn't needed for a 200tdi just for earlier diesels. That 'might' be bringing down the voltage as I believe the glows on...

Britpart glowplugs are generally rubbish. You will get a voltage drop when all glowplugs are operating but does it start OK now? I let them glow for around 10 to 15 secs when it's frosty but that's with bosch glows.

M8 they are.

Hi and welcome from me :vb-wavey:

:vb-wavey:watcha got?

Straight 6? They are 2.6ltr. If it's a 4 cylinder it's a 2.25.

I'm finding the plastic welding of the switch 'pins' a faff so had a look to see if it was possible to secure the switch with small self tappers into the remains of the switch studs that originally hold the thing in place. It looks possible but would need tiny screws, an even tinyer pilot hole...

We're these p38 struts from the likes of rimmers/island 4x4 etc or did you source them using cross referencing? I fitted a new centre console strut which made it better but still needs a lift to open(that might be normal?) and tailgate struts from island which ,again, made it better but my mates...

It probably won't last doing that, mine didn't. When I took all the plastics off to clean them up I found the terminals were loose, I forget if it was on the bulb itself or the bulb holder but I do remember just touching the bulb and it would flicker on/off.

There should be no play in the part you are pointing to but the joints at either end can and do wear so no wear there either. You need to have the engine running when checking for free movement at the power steering box output side. ie does the input shaft move a lot more before the output...

Passenger front and rear windows decided not to work yesterday. Switchpack out and a clean of the contacts and all good again.

2 jigsaw blades release the head unit.

Seat side impact airbag on later models perhaps?

Don't normally believe most of the hacks you see on the net but saw similar on a well known site so gave it a go before buying new lamps. Wipac crystals. Bit of tooth paste on the wifes washing up sponge and a minute or two of roundy roundy motion and ...it works, yay! Before and after