Recent content by dag019

With a 1.2 box and 265/75 tyres that ^^ I could not agree more with! You either need to sit a 25, or 35, neither of which is ideal!

I have done that with everything I have done to the 110. It has been my daily drive since I was 18, and having converted it to a station wagon for the growing family I intend to keep it as my daily drive for a long time yet. Therefore I do not want to have to keep replacing parts that like to...

Completely agree with that. And even though galv I have seam sealed and filled the frames of my door bottoms with dinitrol. Being glav is just another additional protection element. It does not replace the existing ones like paint and wax.

I have not yet replaced the rear door yet. Am looking to buy one next month now I have gathered all the other parts. I didn’t get a definitive answer on Ali vs steel skin. But think I will go for Ali same as the original and the other doors. I did use SP for the galv frame door bottoms for the...

Agree with that. Use the one you have until it breaks. Then get the series one next time.

They are exactly the same hole spacing. The series handle does sit snug up against the wiper cover (if you have one). I am trying to find a photo of it fitted to mine. I have one of the defender handle fitted to the series door where I swapped them over to show the spacing is the same:

On my 110 I found that running 35" diameter tyres was the same as fitting the 1.2 transfer box in terms of speed vs revs vs drivability (I am sure someone who can be bothers can work out the actual ratios and tell me different). Running both would certainly have made the thing struggle. I run...

Yes, I would treat anything metal in the same way. even if it galvanised it gets the same treatment. Then you can touch up the wax as needed and re-apply every couple of years, but the paint should last as the wax protects it, and the metal should last as the paint protects it.

That is the style that you will have had fitted before and tends to bend a break as you have found. The one you have ordered form ebay you can see where the bolt tabs have been bent, on a new one the bolt tabs are flat (pic below). It is the repetitive bending and straightening that causes them...

YRM has several workshop documents showing how to fit the repair panels. Most are just bolted or riveted in place so are nice easy DIY replacement panels.

Check YRM for repair panels, They have most of what you will need. It would not be cheap but is likely to be the same amount of work for a much better result than swapping the tub, as a replacement tub is likely to have similar issues even if not quite as bad as your current one. I am about to...

I would just use rivets. I have a chequer plate door card and just drill and replace the rivets when I need to remove it. If you are going to use self tappers make sure they are stainless, they will hold it no problem, especially with some penny washers on them, and they will look basically...

As @Anaconda says, Wax is the final treatment not the only treatment. If the axles, and other things are rusting they need the rust removed (wire wheel or similar) treating with a rust converter/stabiliser, painting with primer (I like red oxide for steel, zinc 182 for galv, a quality etch...

I know you can get different grades of stainless but I am always dubious using stainless for structural applications. It has different properties to high tensile mild steel. none structural I have replaced nearly everything with stainless, but would not trust wheel studs and nuts!

They are all old enough to be on the flat rate tax and are all classed as private light goods vehicle. Also all shortly to qualify as historic and be exempt so the tax class is correct for all. It’s just the body type.