dag019's latest activity

I have the issue of having the rear vents on my roof so if I park front up (as my drive is) my internal gutters fill with water! I basically gave up, I did the external gutters and when level it doesn’t leak.

I didn’t bother with insulation. Just put the headlining back in. But the seatbox and bulkhead have the original foam rubber matting over the top of the sound deadening.

Thanks, and absolutely! We have gone from being worried to let's get stuck in and learn! We love it and it's gonna be worth every thing we do. This forum has been a huge help I was expecting to be laughed at with my first post 😆 but nothing but...

I went for the cover everything in the sound deadening when I did mine. See the pic below of my roof. It definitly Made a difference.

From memory green and brown is for the reverse switch on the back of the gearbox (assuming LT77). So it is not essential for getting or keeping the engine running. Although that doesn’t mean it shouldn’t be repaired!

PROGRESS UPDATE:

Mine went... tank to lift pump, lift pump to filter, filter to fuel pump pump to injectors Leak off pipes back to tank

I used the 2mm Ali-butyl sound deadening on the I deraid wig the floor panels, inside the door (I have series doors) seat box, bulkhead, and full roof (under the head lining). I went with full coverage but @Anaconda is correct you don’t actually...

That I can identify with! My station wagon project (bought for my son when he was born) has very little chassis and bulkhead left, needs a full rebuild, the rear body rebuilding back to a station wagon, as I used it for my 110, and when I bought...

Do you mean you want a middle Seat to fit a child seat to? If so I dont think you can do that as the middle seat only has a lap belt. I have just converted my 110 to a station wagon for this reason!

You can bypass the lift pump for diagnosis by putting a jerry can of fuel on the wing and a long length of fuel pipe to the filter. the gravity feed combined with the suction from the injector pump is enough to run the engine to confirm...

Although currently fully stripped, I also have a pressure tested block, and a ground crank if you need more than just the pistons. I don't have enough parts to put the engine back together, so am parting it out for spares.

I never understood the longer lasting part of oil advertising. I am not increasing the service interval because I have put fancy oil in it. The service interval is the gospel set in stone! If they mean it doesn’t degrade and remains as good...

Although everyone has their preference and at the risk of starting a lively debate below are some of my preferred parts suppliers, as you are just starting out not sure if you have found these yet. Nothing wrong with eBay but the dedicated parts...

With the pipe off servo and engine on tick over put thumb over end of pipe, If the pipe holds itself on vac is good. Check the valve the pipe fits to on servo is working. With the master as it is old you may have issues with seals inside...

I use britpart oil fuel filters. But with the mileage I do they get changed about every 3months. I have never had any problems. I tend to order the cheap ones (non-OEM) and sometimes get other makes have used coppers in the past. Just what ever I...

Funny that was exactly what did it! The open end on the bolt with a large pipe on thw other to break mine. Think it was a 13mm was something small enough I was expecting the bolt to snap, but couldn’t access with a socket to deliberately shear...

That is exactly the sort of set I was referring to. I got mine when I was 18 (18 years ago) so it does not look like that and it is still in regular use and I have only broken one spanner and that was through mis-use, but as long as you don’t tel...

Maybe I just kick the gravel around to kid myself 🤔. J

Just to make you feel better again I have rebuilt mine three times (chassis replacement, rebuild after an engine fire, conversion to a station wagon with the last two well documented on here), and mine still leaks. Currently from the steering...

They look like this bulge in the middle of the front and rear axles. I changed my oils months ago ;), but it doesn’t make a puddle. To believe your gearbox and transfer box has been out recently to blame it on an “overfill “ is a bit of a...

The best "new Defender" is the new Suzuki Jimny. Or it would be, if it was 20% larger. The only thing missing is a centre differential so it's only part time 4wd. lt was made the size it is, so it was within the vehicle size limits in Japan...

Many thanks. I am currently away until Sunday so no rush.

I think the size for alternator belt is 10mmx613mm does that sound about right? Did you find what make you used? I am struggling to find a solid belt.

If it’s just shocks and springs then I would say nothing. If it’s cranked arms, and wide angle props (which from what you have said I don’t think you have) then that has value.

I think i may have a full set of 200tdi pistons. I am in Portugal for the week but if you can wait until Next sunday and PM me to remind me to check I will confirm for you.

my view would be to just drill it out and put new no nuts in. People above talking about drilling out and cutting new threads might know more than me about the construction of that section of the chassis but if it is a rivnut just keep drilling...

Ended up using a combination of the angle grinder, cutting disk, lump hammer and crowbar to get the bloody thing out.

I was going to say similar. I don’t know what prices are like I. The Netherlands but for the UK that is very high. I would want a valve chassis’s and possibly bulkhead for that price. How much effort/taxes is there to import one? You could get...

Funnily enough I am in the process of gathering parts to do this conversion on my station agon project. When i was looking the going rate for a disc Salisbury seemed to be an awful lot IF you could even find one, I am talking about £1000. So i...