Recent content by Al2O3

That's not good, if they have to trim them to fit after the galv process. Defeats the object :confused:

Morning Brown, thanks for saying hello. Yes, we're ok here, just getting old! How are you doing? I do occasionally check in on your land project, it's time I did again though!

Cheers mate. When I did my rebuild I got normal doors. Peeled the skins off and got the frames plastic coated. Filled the frames with dinitrol, but my mistake was not keeping on top of the dinitrol. They've lasted 11 years. Front ones look good from outside, but inside at the bottoms is not good...

Cheers tottot, I'll check LR Parts out.

Bloody hell, I wouldn't have expected that. When you say galvanised steel, do you mean galvanised steel skins, as well as the frames? Edit Just dawned on me that those skins must be steel to rust like that. Were they non galvanised skins?

Evening All, It's been a while since I used the forum regularly and I'm out of touch a bit. I've just been Googling for galv doors and searched on the Forum. The main firms seem to be SP 4x4 and Shielder or am I missing a better one? I replaced the doors when I did the rebuild, which seems like...

Rear Tubular Seatbelt Bracket They do make them, so not such an issue as it was when I did mine.

I agree with what has been said about the tub, ie cleaning, plating and protecting the repairs. If you're not putting the rear seats back in I'd remove the tubular seat belt anchor tubes that drop from under the tub to the chassis, then get them galvanised. They're rarer than hens teeth and...

I should read more words instead of concentrating on the pictures :)

That looks almost identical to mine, which I bought nearly twenty years ago. However, mine has metal tubes on the legs It hangs up in the garage roof when I'm not using it. Then these clamps go up through those tubes and clamp it to the gutter. Does yours look like it used to have tubes...

Taking the body off the chassis will reveal what's good to go back and what would better off being replaced. Things to consider, as your budget allows, and what conditions bits are in: Galvanised body cappings Galvanised inner sills Galvanised rear floor cross members Rear body mounting (bit of...

Ah, sorry Julian. I was just saying some of the Defender 300Tdi's have flanged rear drive shafts, not that they will fit a salisbury diff. I've no experience of them, but from what I've read they are not interchangeable parts.

Mine is another vote for the chassis swap. Chances are the steel of the chassis rail behind the gearbox cross member flanges will be non existent, as well as all of the other holes you've already identified. As Hicap phill says, you're half way there. If you have the space and the budget, then...

Mine is a 1996 300Tdi and mine has them on. According to the LR parts catalogue, they were used from VIN - LA930456 Here's one on Paddocks part number FTC3270. The near side is FTC3271

Definitely sounds like the panhard rod bushes. Buy good quality bushes and tighten the bolts with a big, **** off, breaker bar. They have to be extraordinarily tight.