The timing never settled down to give me a spark every time so I think the distributor cam was on the wobble. I fitted a Powerspark kit today. It took me 5 minutes and has transformed the running - the dwell angle (irrelevant I know to an electronic system) and the tacho readings on my...

If you can afford it I'd replace the lot, but doing your own repairs isn't too difficult. Wiring diagrams are simple to follow if you are methodical as they tell you exactly where each wire starts and finishes. My 1977 S3 has been plagued by poor wiring and I have slowly resolved the problems...

Things much improved with correction of a schoolboy error - I had connected the rocker breather to what I think is the vacuum brake connection in the adaptor below the carb which obviously introduced random air flow into the mixture! Timing still a bit lumpy but I bought a multi meter that...

Just to check - I have a 5 bearing engine with a pointer on the alternator support which points to timing marks on the pulley wheel. This pointer seems to have been damaged as there is a kink in the backing plate and it is therefore pointing at an angle to the pulley. This presumably makes...

Thanks - yes will check timing marks. I haven't had the engine in pieces so any such problem will be a legacy from before. Lead order is OK. At least all cylinders fire up now that I have changed the points, but on the road it lacks power and will not accelerate in 4th

Wiring them up is quite easy if the wires are the right colours and someone hasn't semi-rewired them with non standard stuff - green and white for right and green and red for left It is basically one wire to each indicator with an earth selected from some convenient place for the black wire to...

Using a strobe to check my 2.25 patrol timing after tuning it by ear it is about 45 degrees out on number 1 cylinder! I presume someone has not lined the timing marks up properly at some time when reassembling the engine. Is there another explanation? The engine is also very lumpy (even though...

Did you find the link to those connectors Bump? They look pretty useful as I have one or two wiring issues to sort out. Regards Colin

If you jack the car up and put an axle stand under the spring you can rotate the wheel and listen for grumbling noises from within the bearings. If its the brakes locking this will also show you pretty fast! I have just changed the bearings (and a swivel) in my front axle and it isn't too bad...

I found access a real problem when replacing my master cylinder as you can't get a spanner on the inside end of the lower nut and bolt (mine was installed with a nyloc nut which means they never loosen off). In the end I ground an enlarged slot in the existing access port and got a nut splitter...

I have a Weber on my 5 bearing engine with an after market K&N style filter. Works much better than the Zenith I replaced which ran rich whatever I did to it.

Thanks ( I meant 3 and 4 by the way!). In fact my empty fuse station is between 5 and 6 but otherwise the connections look right. Yes I agree about the fiddling - I've taken out no end of wires simply twisted together and replaced them with proper connections!

Just sorting out my own Series 3 1977 (petrol) electrics. Just a silly question - according to the wiring diagrams there aren't any connections to fuse points 2 and 4. Any idea why there is a fuse in this at all, or am I missing something?

That is my next option jockmurray if the original LR parts don't do the business!

Thanks chaps - just bought the original part as suggested so I'll see how that works.

I bought the Britpart points set for my Ducellier and I can't get a gap. The cam doesn't push the contacts apart even at the most extreme setting. Any ideas?

I always assume blue means burning oil, black means too much fuel and white means water somewhere in the combustion system. If it happens when she is hot that sounds like the temperature is just right for the production of steam. So head gasket seems likely.

I had the same problem on my S3. I found that after I somehow forced the drums into place the brakes eased off after a day and were fine. I think the problem is that the pistons sometimes need time to settle down if they go in a little extended.

If you put an axle stand under the chassis, take off the wheel and support the brake drum with a jack you can undo the bolts holding the swivel pin and take it out for inspection. To reduce the tightness on whichever side make sure the pin is properly lubricated and/or add a shim. Also make...

Just to round this off I reassembled the axle and had a short drive yesterday round the garden. What a revelation - the steering is light and responsive even at slow speeds where before I had to hang both hands in the wheel to get anywhere near a full lock. Next issue is the carburettor as...