C

CWB

New Member
I've changed one swivel ball for a new one on my series 3 as the housing was full of sand! There is a terrific step by step sequence in Land Rover S3 Reborn by Lindsay Porter. He says Land Rover advice is to pre-load the pin so that a force of 6 to 8 lb will move the ball in the housing, which I have done.

Autobooks Owners Workshop manual (1979 edition) says to pre-load the pin so a force of 12 to 14 lb will move the ball but the Porter advice may be more authoritative.

I'm now doing the other side where the ball is OK and it still contains oil so I'm just planning to do the seal. I find this one is much stiffer and I have a job to move the ball in the housing at all (although it is not seized). I'm planning to add a shim or two to bring the pre-load down to the 'Porter' level but I thought I would just check here first for any advice.
 
8 to 10 lb with seal not in place,series 1s had 14 to 16 lb and i have seen 12 to 14 lbs but 8 to 10 will be right for new/good condition, they may well wear looser or top pin may dry and become stiffer have a look when adjusting the unrenewed side
 
Thanks Jamesmartin - yes I was testing without the seals in place - looks like I need a fraction more tension on the new ball. I'll dismantle the non-renewed side and check for pin lubrication and ease that one off to 8 to 10 lb too. I'll also check the bottom bearing in case that is knackered.
 
Checked the pin and it is a good fit and the bearing is in good nick. So I think its just too tight and a further shim will fix it. Just waiting for the paint on the housing to dry before doing a trial assembly.
 
8 to 10lb applied at the end of the steering arm, seal not fitted, but that's the dynamic resistance - you'll need a higher force to start it moving. It's easier to pull 10lb on a balance (or weight) and set the tension by feel, comparing the resistance to the pull.
 
Thanks Oxides. Just out of interest what are the implications of getting it wrong? It is obviously not an exact science!

For anyone out there who hasn't checked their hubs I would recommend you make sure they have oil and not some nasty stuff in them - the pin in the one I have just replaced was slopping about in an oval hole in the ball!
 
Too tight, stiff steering - too loose, steering slop and wander. Not sure I'd notice unless it was really bad....
 
CWB said:
Thanks Oxides. Just out of interest what are the implications of getting it wrong? It is obviously not an exact science!

For anyone out there who hasn't checked their hubs I would recommend you make sure they have oil and not some nasty stuff in them - the pin in the one I have just replaced was slopping about in an oval hole in the ball!
Click to expand...
if you put swivel in one lock then read the poundage after initial start till other lock ,it will tell you exactly what preload is
 
oxides said:
Too tight, stiff steering - too loose, steering slop and wander. Not sure I'd notice unless it was really bad....
Click to expand...

If too tight it won't try and self-centre coming out of a corner.....I wouldn't have believed how much they try and straighten up at speed until I overtightened mine even though it felt ok trundling around.

You'd notice :eek:
 
Thanks everyone. I've got it about right I think so it looks as if a test drive will provide the answer. Doing two of them has certainly demystified the swivels so I won't have any problem going back in to adjust them if they don't feel right.
 
Just to round this off I reassembled the axle and had a short drive yesterday round the garden. What a revelation - the steering is light and responsive even at slow speeds where before I had to hang both hands in the wheel to get anywhere near a full lock.

Next issue is the carburettor as I'm getting a bit of black smoke...
 
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