An unfair assessment, I believe. Having recovered several V6's, not one actually had overheating issues, although 3 were accused of that. More likely a "mechanic" has thrown his/her hands in the air, given up, and reported to the owner that the FL is stuffed as it is cooked - a common problem...

I would suggest that the standard Freelander was designed for road use with some basic off road capabilities. As As it is a Land Rover clearly intended for some off road capability I would expect any "sport" use would be intended to increase the off road capabilities, which would be useful. No...

A bit rich and pimped up for me. Good for picking up kids from school, I guess. I would have preferred a "sports" version to have more lift, not less.

What motor? If petrol K1.8 could be fuel vaporising in the fuel line. They don't have a fuel bypass back to the tank so slow moving petrol can vaporise. Make sure fuel line is away from anything warm under the bonnet.

Only ones that are major and require a certified repairer to validate the repair - like corrosion damage.

If your reason for believing it is working fine is because it is near new, that is not a good test. You really need to prove that it is working fine.

You need to get the engine management codes read, that will tell you the cause of the light coming on, even if it is off at the time the code is read. Any good service station or garage should have a code reader that will do the job.

That would be interesting.

We are allowed up to 50mm blocks, and any lift or lower as long as they are standard aftermarket springs and/or shocks which fit the stock mounts. Not allowed to change body or other bits to accommodate the lift without further certification. So 40mm should be OK.

Thinking about this, I am building a picture of my next Freelander Adventure. I am thinking diesel auto would be the way to go, along with lift and the right tires. And also thinking a KV6 Auto torque converter would give better performance at lower speeds as it should be more slippery than...

A bit of push from the back wheels would probably help as well.

I thought you were going to leave the FL at home?

Yes, it was when I went in to pay and they sucked a lot out of my card, so I looked at the receipt and saw 91 instead of diesel.....

Depends on your mindset I guess. I did it in our Ford Ranger a few years ago, rushing back to Christchurch the day of the big earthquake while having little luck contacting children etc.. In my case, I put 50 litres of 91 on top of 20 litres of diesel. It was only when I paid for it that I...

10% of petrol in your tank is going to have a minimum effect on the lubrication of the pump etc. However to be sure, once it gets to half full I would top it up again - preferably with straight diesel.

When checking the timing do not trust the mark on the front (accessory) pulley. You need to pull that pulley off and check the mark on the lower timing belt pulley is correctly aligned. There is only a "bump" to line up the keyway on the front pulley and it is easy to replace it without it...

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rust_(programming_language)

Oh really????:p:p:p https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/think-before-u-post.304769/

I have seen new locally manufactured ones listed on our local auction site. However this one is interesting... http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/landrover/auction-1324170668.htm It shows only one part number for all FL1's, but I do know many parts changed for MY01, as it...

Only ODB code was a misfire on number 3 cylinder. Found the plug was tracking over on the outside, must have been some moisture or crud in there at some stage. Cleaned it up, scraped the carbon track from inside the plug boot and coated the inside with silicon grease. All good and it goes...