You just remove/ detach the linkage Remove the nuts securing the of to the transfer box and pull away. Once it's off you'll see the drive clutch for the od on the gearbox output shaft remove this it's on with a lock tab and castle nut replace with the original gear. I undid the castle nut...

I'd buy the 2a, that or the defender will have the best smiles per mile.

What mig do you have, this will have a huge bearing as to how much of a struggle you can have. Make sure you clean the metal as much as you can and use decent gas not co2. As for practicing use good clean steel watch some vids and play on a bench. Mig welding.co.UK has a lot of good info too.

I used an ap driveline one and the quallity was spot on and it was only 55 quid ish for a kit

I put a thread on here with a p38 conversion. I wouldn't bother with the disco box it's a hell of a lot more hassle. You would only use the box as a defender colum is an easier fix. Sell the disco box and buy a p38 one.

Have you used the rear mounting holes on the tdi block? I used series mounts on my disco engine with no issues

Look smart mate

Your steering sounds like a dry or seized relay to me, where it turns through the chassis.

Ah yeah it's often the best way mate,I generally change as axle sets, you can clamp of the others then bleed that will let you isolate the problem. Loving the axle stand

As above really paddocks are very good as a company but you need to be careful on the manufacturers, britpart parts can be pretty hit and miss. The hydraulic parts I would avoid and go with trv Lucas or similar as they tend to vastly outlast. Little bits and bobs britpart are fine.

You can do either or really it depends how confident you are. It's probably easier to cut off and replace as a whole. If you do that make sure your chassis is supported so it won't move and make up some Fatima either by setting it level or measurin from the bolt holes to the floor and other...

Hey bud what are you after for the series alternator.?

Ah didn't read that we'll enough, I was thinking of the smoking.

Ah that's a good Sign although I would expect it to fire, you may want to sand down your positive terminals too. Is it the starter clivking? If not then I'd look for a high resistance contact. (dirty contact) pull all of your engine earths and lives off, lightly sand the terminals and mount...

Could well be turbo seals mate,has it been standing a while how long have you ran it for?

Defender seats are a very different design as the load is supported through the seat box with minimal moment and should they shift your protected by the bulkhead backwards. I wouldn't personally use riv nuts to mount conventional seats. That's an awful lot of force

Have you tried connecting a jump lead from the engine to the battery? Did this solve your issue?

Ah good stuff it certainly been an enjoyable little challenge. If you need any help let me know if you used something like a wilwood caliper it would take me 5 mins to knock you one up on cad.

Looks like a great little project mate, as has been said if your unsure, pictures and more pictures

Ah cheers mate, it seems to be going ok so far but time will tell i guess ill have to see how they perform.