Sometimes there is a brass screen in the inlet to the pump. Check if there is one and, if present, that it's not clogged with stuff dislodged when you changed the filter.

Without trouble would be another 2.5 na. Moderate trouble would be a 200tdi. Slightly more trouble would be a 300tdi or v8. But there's loads of non landrover engines that can be glued in. Money varies from a £100 potential dog off eBay to £2000 fora recon engine.

Check compression if you're sure it's timed right and has fuel, that's the only thing that will stop it going bang. And if you can't tow it, double up the batteries.

Oops, you might have identified the problem. Does spraying it just make too big a bang?

I assume it wasn't making the noise before you changed the pump? So there could be some valve damage but first find why it won't start. Silly question first, you have put the fuel cut off wire back on the pump, havent you? Loosen the unions on the injector and crank the engine. You should see...

I got britpart synchro cones and the quality was awful. Bearmach and genuine ones were only ok (and suspiously similar). I got mostly genuine parts where possible. If buying replacements, inspect and measure; if it's not good enough then ask for another. And keep going until you get a good one...

Second hand is your best bet. Only lwb ones are made now. If you're really lucky there might be some nos gathering dust somewhere.

No, they're just the older stlyle springs. Then they changed to single coil. You may find some nos double coils.

Seems a bit strange. Try disconnecting the cable at the pump end and check that the cable moves with the throttle pedal (I.e. Is the cable seized or sticky) Then disconnect at pedal and operate the cable with pliers to see the linkages move. If both things work then the problem is in your...

Stc1562 is the top end gasket set. Head gasket is err3618. Far as I know the differences in 14j and 15j were just in the timing chest so the head gaskets will be the same.

Close but no. Furniture polish has turps, you can't use substitute.

Beeswax and turps substitute. But I can't remember the proportions.

I've just realised that I'm very old. Why would any think that bike is a good idea? Don't understand.

Don't sure that would blow a fuse as it doesn't seem to be touching anything. Anyway that's the wire you'd earth to check the gauge. Can't tell if it's a series sender, you need to take it out and check the thread. 5/8 unf is series , something metric (m10 x 1.5?) is the later one Edit. Looked...

Yes, drift the seal into the housing first. Just be very careful not to touch the seal lips and maybe use the old seal as a drift , if you have it.

Seal into flywheel housing and insert the oiled protector into the seal then fit the housing. Protector will guide the seal and pop out at the end. Make sure the guide is smooth with no burrs.

Sounds like voltage stabiliser because both gauges aren't working. However, the 12j metric head uses a different temp sender so you should check it actually has a series one. If that's not right, then maybe you just need a new fuel sender as well. Have you tried earthing the wire to see if the...

Glyptal is to help oil drain in engine block (some say rubbish), almost the exact opposite of what you want in a diff. Not so much a sign of a pukka job, more a sign of Alzheimers. Or possibly a porous casting.

I'm very surprised that release bearing is OK judging by the amount of wear on the pressure plate it doesn't look like it goes round at at all. The friction plate looks at bit worn but you need to measure it. Pressure plate springs look well worn by the bearing but the machined face of the plate...

4th is direct drive so it must be either the 3/4 synchro or (vaguely possible) the selector fork or rod. The only gearbox that is a drop in replacement is another series box. If you weld, shorten props and do clever stuff then later boxes can be shoehorned in.