just change the hinge, easy... open, support taildoor with hi-lift or something, remove doorcard, unbolt and swap out the hinge.

This is one of my TD5 head dowels that came out when the gasket was done!

This is one of my TD5 head dowels that came out when the gasket was done!

Welcome to the forum.:welcome2: first of all: where exactly are you? there maybe a landyzoner in the next street that can help?? second: what is the exact problem with the front axle and why cant you fix it yourself or drive it?

you can buy a 'Laser' fan spanner from halfords, 32mm IIRC for about a tenna. the TD5 is a normal thread so anticlockwise shock to crack it.

so how do you overide feedback to the computer of the ride height sensors?

I doubt you'll bridge a 1" gap with them, maybe get some aluminium sheet and cut some patches. search out 'durafix'

if you're gonna repair it then you might want to consider low temparature alloy welding rods, you can get them in B&Q and only need a blowtorch to get them to the right heat. YouTube - More Aluminum Repair Rods

shuting the gate after the horse has bolted, ah well, useful to watch! YouTube - Land Rover Technical 200 tdi & 300tdi diesel fuel lift pump why sometimes it won't prime....

the bolts are shear bolts, you will have to chisel them off and then refit a new ignition

It could be arranged, I dont have a nanocom to hand but I have the chipped TD5. and we head your way occasionally Why not park up in the carpark at the bottom of Stannage with a flask and your bonnet open, you'll have it done within the day :D

TBH the best money I ever spent on my TD5 was a performance fuel remap on the ECU. now... ... if you know a man with a nanocom, who's had thiers chipped, and knows how to transfer the fuel map and who likes alot of beer... 'if Carlesberg did land rover engines'

you can pull a taught piece of string tied to the towbar: bring it around the rear wheel and then onto the front wheel at the same height. if you can get the string to touch in four places. that is: on both the left and right outside face side of both the front and rear tyres, then whip...

good news... ...now go and give it the proper once over: flush the **** out of the intercooler, clean the all the marmite from the inlet plenum, clean the mass air flow meter, and fit her with a new air filter... then see how she dances!

it is possible to braze them , i know that for sure as we did it a couple of months ago, it took longer to get the pipes off than to fix them! it was the rear pipes we did and was really a two man job to un-plat them from the chassis.

now get a zip lock bag with a small hole cut in the corner and an elastic band, and cover the filter up. then the next time you have to do it, you wont even get your hands dirty!

careful when you change it you dont leave the center rubber o ring on the spigiot. they have a habit of sticking on and the new one wont seal properly if the old one is still there.

yes

its the diesel filter, nip it up by hand for now, and get another one, as you should be replacing it as a service item anyway.

what about the clevis pins that hold it to the chassis, did you grind this connection through as well?