Not a bad call

I've just got off the phone to my mum and she's fine with it. That's a relief as I didn't have a plan b. Front outrigger NS and OS both near to the body mounting points and at the steering mounting points. Rear suspension mounting area NS and OS and then the coverall the chassis is corroded...

Well done getting her through. Once I'd got my head around the situation the decision was actually quite easy. I'm going to miss driving her whilst she's in bits. I can't imagine not ever driving her again.

The rust is quite extensive and will need some strip down to weld up. The garage declined to give a quote for welding. I've just looked for a mobile welder and can't find one locally. Anyone know one up here? My parents house is in Burnley Lancs. I'd always planned to have her rebuild on a...

My 300tdi Defender 90 (daily driver) just became a project. She failed her MOT with a few minor things and one major thing. The dreaded chassis rot. I don't have any garage space or facilities. I don't have the money to pay for someone to rebuild her on a Galv chassis. I can't believe how...

I think that I'm correct in saying that all that matter is whether TFL have it classified as exempt or not. https://tfl.gov.uk/modes/driving/lez-lez-vehicle-checker-35896 If it was registered as a CSW when new it should be exempt.

I've got the Momo Quark fitted. I prefer it to the original.

label all the wires / connectors before you........ oh, oh dear, never mind.

How do you access the battery (without tools) for the MOT?

I have a noise / vibration when idling. Depress the clutch pedal and it lessens or stops. I assumed that it was broken / loose springs in the clutch plate.

As above. I fitted 2 inward facing fold up bench seats in the back of my 1996 D90. Cheap and easy to do. Seatbelts not required as they wouldn't have originally have been fitted in '96 (I'm sat here waiting to be corrected on that one).

Glad you got it sorted. Although I'm going to take the credit for inspiring you with my spanner and bottle jack method, your socket and trolley jack method looks a lot better and safer. :):D

I had the same problem with mine. Even with a 6 point spanner, it was rock solid. I had tried holding the spanner on to the plug whilst persuading it with a hammer. One of the hits sounded quite a bit duller than the others. I'm sure that the scar will fade a bit with time. I ended up...

Update - Starter was working fine and the wiring checked out ok. I then got an intermittent fault. If, for example, I stopped at the shop on the way home from work, occasionally when I came to start her again there would be nothing other than the click of a relay. Leave her there and walk...

Sorry for the lack of update, I didn't realise there was any further posts in this thread. It would appear that the cable always needs cutting down. I just made sure that there was as much left on as possible without risk of fouling. I'm still having trouble with my drivers side wiper over...

You maybe right. I don't know. All I know is that this is how they are in my Def 90.

They are not supposed to be bolted down in front of the hinge. They fold up. There is supposed to be a hooked check strap riveted to the base, when folded up the hook attaches to the back of the seat to hold it up. If these are missing the seats rattle when not in use so people bolt them down...

I use a stoplock pro. I always turn the steering wheel to full lock (makes the landy more difficult to drag) and then move it back to easiest position to put the steering lock on. The steering lock is usually in about the 10 to position. It won't fit straight up in the 12 o'clock position...

Did you manage to get this sorted and if so, what was it?

Not strictly related to turning, but have you checked you UJ s for excess play? I've just replaced two on my front prop. I was getting vibration but I did get the occasional clunk.