If yours is a 2003 as you say, it almost certainly is the 15P engine. You can confirm this by seeing if it has the EGR cooler across the front of the engine and the later FPR with the return from the cylinder head. The actual hp doesn't matter, apart from some minor differences they are...

This is another part that it is worth replacing with an original LR item. They usually last at least 100k miles, (replaced mine at 120k, as it was squeaking when cold), so worth the money IMO.

BTW, if you do replace the pump, Quinton Hazell is the way to go, rather than others......

It still looks like the area of the water pump. When the bearing in the water pump goes it leaks through a drain hole underneath. You need to look harder and from underneath and from the nearside to ascertain exactly where it is coming from.

Guys, Sorting out some stuff the other day I came across this. It is a wooden centre console insert for an automatic LHD. It has the cut-outs for electric windows and heated seats etc, and even has the cut-out switch for the rear sunroof still in it. It is is great condition. These are like...

As said, mineral two stroke, 250ml to a full tank, works great. It noticeably improves consumption and response, as well as emissions. I run it a lot. Cheapest is from Screwfix.......

Once you've changed it, (surprised you have to) remember to keep it greased, spray grease is ideal. If you don't the steering gets stiff and the UJ's will wear as a result, (presumably what has happened to you)....

+1, mine sometimes does this. Removing and replacing the electrical connections to the various components on the block seems to resolve it, in my case anyway..

Billybones, See my post on your other thread about replacing studs...

When I did mine I drilled cylinders 1 and 5 out to 10mm on the manifold, but left the others. It is almost always 1 and 5 that break due to warping, and I did deweb, firstly with a disc cutter, then a grinder. Also billybones, if you have the manifold off, I strongly recommend replacing all the...

The recommendation is for two oil changes, as you can only get about half the ATF out when draining. Strongly suggest that you get them to change the filter and refill, using the correct procedure, (engine running and run through the gears whilst still filling), and then after some miles a...

I've used this one with good success. Much cheaper than that posted from Amazon..... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/123735248113

Give Paul at Discovery2Parts a call 01206 211623, he'll have a good used intercooler.

You are right, don't know why....

If you do choose to blank it, rather than the VERY expensive blanking plug, try finding a silicon one such as here; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/402751885330?hash=item5dc5e21012:g:PusAAOSwwlVgUJle

There are two UJ's to check on the steering column, the lower one is hidden away under the intercooler metal pipe. Lavish them in WD40...

They are correct, it is unusual, not sure about unlikely, that the rear camshaft seal is leaking. Suggest as before get a mirror on a stick, preferably with led's and get rid of the silly sound insulating pad that covers it. Then with the mirror you will be able to see clearly where the leak...

Never had to do it in situ, only when I did the head gasket recently, but I have heard that it can be done without too much trouble. I believe you have to puncture and lever the old one out, then using a small block of wood and a lever of some sort, you press the new one in. They are not hard...

Not sure I can assist much, I'm sure sierafery (the electrical guru) will be along shortly. But when you say differential warning light, do you mean the diff-lock light, although its not a warning light?.....

Hi Galen, You can replace the plastic axle filler plugs with these https://www.jgs4x4.co.uk/discovery-2-heavy-duty-brass-differential-filler-plugs/ Much better....