Best way i found was grind it all out cutting up the crossmember in the process. I then bought a used one for £12 and put in new hardware. Why spend ages on rounded nuts when you can just cut it out in half the time.

My Monroe shocks have lasted a few thousand miles and are goosed. Very poor. Id shell out for nice ones as SF says.

When plugged in to a chrager it thinks the engine is running so will attempt to operate the compressor to level the suspension. The voltage drop will then cause it to realise the engine isnt running and it will stop, then it will start again and so on. The fuse removed obviously wasnt the one...

If it was me id put it back in place and put 2 big ratchet straps on it around the chassis rail to hold it in place. Then replace ratchet straps as required!

On the 15p if the MAF is knackered it causes a sort of limp mode when setting off initially. Well at least it does on the auto.

I had the same issue with the second circlip and just replaced the whole lot.

I sold a car to WBAC a few years back, they were fine and easy to deal with. Knocked £100 off for scratches which was completely fair. Gave me a good price.

Wurth plastic dye all the way, bangin stuff

I couldnt do it even on the bench but as i was doing a hyd conversion i just drilled them out. They were well and truly corroded in.

Classic weak point is the whole system on a D2. But id start at the front pipe that goes to the dryer as it rubs on the p clip. Mine went here. Also condensers go and leak. All seals in pipework. And seals in compressor. Mine went in all those places. Stop leak can sort the seals. P clip pipe...

Not that i know. Older gen had injection pump issues but these seem good. Police regularly clock up 180k on them no worries. They genuinely tow extremely well and are not far behind a D4. The interior is plasticky and the engine is noisier than a D4, but they are solid and nice to drive.

Sadly i would recommend a Shogun (2011 on cheaper tax). Yes they are rated to 3.5t. Our 2015 commercial shogun in work tows 3t like a dream and is ultra reliable. 25mpg when not towing and more on a run. Automatic, cruise control etc… But to be honest, your 110 makes a fair bit of sense still...

+1 my r380 responded well to mtf94 and it sorted some crunching i was getting. I am guessing it was full of ATF previously.

Dont use waxoil on old metal, it will cause more issues trapping moisture. Use Dynax s50 as it can go on lightly rusted surfaces and is mousture repelling. It works very well inside the chassis.

Have you got the EKA code? If not, ask your dealer for it and try that first, with a fresh battery.

Yes i have done this, just use a set of cranked spanners and a small 1/4 ratchet. Get a ratchet strap and pull the exhaust to the side and you can just about get at it. About an hours work in total.

Likely one of the contacts has gone in your xyz switch. Remove it and open it up to check. Replace your reverse light bulbs to led and then either repair or replace the switch. You can re solder a burnt out connector on the black switches. The beige ones are usually non serviceable unless you...

Yes just use appropriate booster seats or similar as required.

Monte Carlo Blue all the way.

I found it very easy to cross thread so just take care to find the right angle. Its awkward with the exhaust in the way.