I recently had my XYZ switch reconditioned, but somewhere in the 4 months since I removed it, I've lost the nut which goes on the selector shaft. I've tried the nut from the bottom of the lever but it doesn't seem the be the same thread. Also tried every other 13mm nut I can find but none seems to fit. It could be that I damaged the thread slightly when I removed the lever, but I don't want to force the nut on if it's a different thread. It's No.3 in the diagram. Anyone had this problem or know if the nuts from either end of the lever assembly are the same thread? TIA.
Iain
 

Attachments

  • Securing Nut.JPG
    Securing Nut.JPG
    56.2 KB · Views: 266
I recently had my XYZ switch reconditioned, but somewhere in the 4 months since I removed it, I've lost the nut which goes on the selector shaft. I've tried the nut from the bottom of the lever but it doesn't seem the be the same thread. Also tried every other 13mm nut I can find but none seems to fit. It could be that I damaged the thread slightly when I removed the lever, but I don't want to force the nut on if it's a different thread. It's No.3 in the diagram. Anyone had this problem or know if the nuts from either end of the lever assembly are the same thread? TIA.
Iain
Can you nut use a thread gauge on the spigot it is supposed to go onto to determine the pitch?
 
Nope. I don't have one.
Then you'll have to improvise.
Try holding a ruler against it and counting the threads against a number of mms, or put summat on it, like lead from a pencil and push a piece of paper or card hard onto the side of it so it transfers the marks to the paper, then you can count them at your leisure.
Look really carefully at all the threads to see if, as you say, you damaged any. They should be saveable with a thread file or even a vey small ordinary file, if you don't have a tap and die set.
I can't manage without one of them, I use them all the time to clean threads on both bolts and nuts and threaded holes in stuff.
They all come with a thread gauge. They aren't expensive and you won't regret getting one.
https://www.google.com/search?q=tap...PAAQHaAQYIARABGAnaAQYIAhABGAg&sclient=gws-wiz
To give you some ideas.

A 13 mm nut or bolt head is normally on an M8 thread which is 1.25 pitch.
But as you have a flange nut there, the diameter of what it is going on could be different, so you need to measure across the widest part of the thread on the spigot thing to see what it actually is, as it's been made oval to do the biz in the switch. Next smaller would be M6 x 1
(Next bigger would be M10 x 1.5. but I doubt hugely it'd be the latter. As it's only turning a switch !)
But these are standard sizes, if the size is a weirdo you really do need to borrow a thread gauge.
M8, M6 is niminal by the way, the actual size of the bolt or threaded part will be a bit different, M8 is in fact 7.73mm and M6 is 5.84, as i have just checked from a lot of bolts I have to hand.
Here's how to measure thread pitch if you are having to count them. It's just simple maths really as measuring an individual thread's pitch would be not easy, better to do a lot then divide by the number of threads counted, so if ten threads comes to 15mm then 1 would be 1.5mm etc.
Imperial threads are "tpi" i.e. threads per inch, which is easy to understand.
Best of luck!
 
If you have damaged the thread get a correct nut cut a slot in it and wind it on ...works a bit like die as the slot removes the tension...
 
Thanks for all the advice guys. The thread on the bottom of the lever doesn't seem to be standard, so I'm guessing both are a non-standard pitch i.e. don't take an off-the-shelf M8 from the hardware store. I contacted my old Landy supplies place in England and they confirmed it was M8 but no pitch info of course, so I'm going to buy a new one. Not an easy place to get a die in unfortunately. Maybe I should get 2 nuts and cut that slot in one first.
 
Thanks for all the advice guys. The thread on the bottom of the lever doesn't seem to be standard, so I'm guessing both are a non-standard pitch i.e. don't take an off-the-shelf M8 from the hardware store. I contacted my old Landy supplies place in England and they confirmed it was M8 but no pitch info of course, so I'm going to buy a new one. Not an easy place to get a die in unfortunately. Maybe I should get 2 nuts and cut that slot in one first.

Just noticed your in Spain you will get fine thread nuts at a hydraulic repair shop...thats where I get them here in Portugal d.i.y shops only do metric coarse....
 
OK. Got the nuts. Same part No. as Sieraferry mentioned. VYH500020, fine pitch. Went straight on without resistance.
I visited quite a few sites and saw quite a bit of advice, most of which was "you can't do it yourself" or "you have to take the downpipe off". I didn't find this video until a few months ago but it shows how to take off and replace the XYZ switch, and persuaded me to have a go. I know the woman has small hands, but I managed to do it with the exhaust still in place, so give it a go before you pay someone else to do it. Fiddly? Yes. Achievable? Certainly.
I used a13mm spanner, a couple of 10mm spanners and a small 10mm socket on one of those tiny pocket ratchets.
Now to see if the recon switch works ok and move on to the next problem. Thanks for the help people.
 
Last edited:

Similar threads