What was the evidence the MAF's ok? ie unplugged, swapped for known good one, diagnostics etc.? I would look at the oxygen sensor next not sure if mentioned but is it a genuine one?

Would suspect it will be a single point system on a classic and they do tend to be a bit more tolerant on ignition problems

Fair enough for them to get their pet garage to do the work as long as it's done properly - bit unfair on the indy who's spent the time quoting for it. Dealer looks like the sort of outfit where they might take a lot of inventory on consignment ie someone brings the car they want to sell in one...

Sorry, that parrot is dead.

Probably criminal how many have been scrapped.

I like this Sealey pocket multimeter as a nice little compact one to keep in the little toolkit I transfer to whichever vehicle I'm driving. Fairly steepish @ £15 though.

The proper LR rubber grommet for it is only a few quid and always worth replacing I think if only for cosmetics but probably doesn't harm to keep more water out too.

Big strong cable tie and use pair of pliers to pull it uber tight whilst pushing on the little plastic block it feeds through hard with a flat screwdriver and it'll probably hold. The proper stainless steel bands can be hard work to get sufficiently tight without the proper tools.

On LPG and with unknown history I would put new genuine Bosch coil packs, magnecor leads and spark plugs - just put the standard NGK don't bother with any of the supposed specially designed for LPG platinum/silver blah-di-blah ones but change them regularly - they're dirt cheap - changing them...

Depends on tools and equipment and If you've done it before and developed little techniques for the trickier/time consuming parts then really not that long at all. If having assistance be careful with delegation you don't want both of you disconnecting harnesses - this is also the reason it's...

Would be worth checking the radiator area of the grille where the transmission oil cooler lives isn't clogged up with crap and giving it a clean some compressed air from the back can eject a surprising amount of crud that's not readily visible. Also if it's got any driving lamps or other...

It’s when they start wanting me to fit the cheapest pattern parts they can lay their hands on when they’re already getting free labour I start getting fed up.

I can measure them when I next go to the workshop professor googles will be sure to have it somewhere though

To be honest if it's mates rates he might not be putting in his best work. I have to admit to getting a bit slapdash myself with some friends and relatives stuff.

If you unbolt the bump stops you can just use accurately sawn blocks of wood to calibrate.

Rave only suggests using the drag link to adjust for 5 degrees of steering wheel misalignment, tyre places frequently do it way beyond this through ignorance and lack of experience with steering box set ups, the pitman arm on the box has a sort of balanced rest position. As mentioned the easiest...

Bleeds the radiator you will have a cooling system performing at below par without it. It may be possible to epoxy glue some sort of generic plastic pipe fitting in or something I would investigate that before writing off the radiator.

Add your own extra bird's nest of hoses if you've got an LPG system fitted by someone else.

I think you can get poly bushes for the watts linkage which would probably be doable without a press. I don't think the ride quality etc debate vs elastomer would be such an issue on the watts linkage.

Just to add from experience avoid Lynx like the plague the customer service is woeful and the product mediocre compared to others don't be taken in by all the from Omitec who do Testbook blather and the glossy ads in the magazines. Unfortunately it was too late to return by the time I realised...