F

foxy1

Member
where to start- running on lpg and petrol-range rover hse 2000 automatic ,running problems help!
had codes for oxygen sensor bank 2 sensor 1- which is now replaced code p0150
also have code p1319 misfire low/empty fuel drive cycle

I have replaced the oxygen sensor at bank 2, checked spark plugs they were a bit loose but look good and put back in ,I have had this car for a couple of months now and only just started to use after doing some body replacements, it had previously stood for around 18 months before I had it

I have never had lpg before , or an automatic !
so unsure whether it is relevant- when out it runs well but does not respond when changing down - it looses power and does not respond as it should, also when driving it fails to get up to speed of traffic sometimes, usually happens also at around 50mph inclines were a problem also
 
First with LPG it need Petrol to running perfect and serviced well. LPG being an alternative fuel and slightly harder on ignition. Most issues can be put to servicing as you mention not running for 18 months. Fuel injection system rely heavy with computers these days so start first with Petrol running.
 
If the car has stood for 18 months chances are the fuel in the tank has gone off, this will not help running till all that fuel has been cleared, as said get it running right on petrol first, good service with decent parts and check everything is as it should fuel and sparks side.
 
I agree with @brianp38dse and @saxavordian totally. I had a P38 on Petrol & LPG. Unless its running properly on Petrol, chasing LPG issues is bit premature.
Either dump all the old petrol or dilute it down with a complete top-up of good quality "Super" petrol and let the car settle down.
Get codes read and a service and when is running right (no issues) on petrol....then, start looking at LPG.
 
Also LPG if left can cause a waxy build up on the filters etc, so a good service wouldnt go a miss
 
my 4.6 is on LPG.. it goes through a set of plugs annually when they get worn it misfires and can throw fault codes, switching to petrol gets a less rough run but the misfire is still there. the plugs may look ok and they do.. a new set of BPR6ES and it runs faultlessly again

a new set of plugs is your first stop
 
On LPG and with unknown history I would put new genuine Bosch coil packs, magnecor leads and spark plugs - just put the standard NGK don't bother with any of the supposed specially designed for LPG platinum/silver blah-di-blah ones but change them regularly - they're dirt cheap - changing them every oil change is a good idea.
If everything is tickety boo then on petrol and it's still mis-firing on gas consistently on the same cylinder number(s) then you would need to consider there might be a dud gas injector. The gas is very fond of rotting o-rings. You can sometimes get repair kits or buy individual injectors but I would just replace the whole lot or at least the whole bank of four as it tends to be a game of wack-a-mole otherwise.
 
thank you for all replies, always start on petrol and then it changes over onto gas, has new coil packs so will get leads and spark plugs to see if it helps ,also I took it out again yesterday the 19th and got fault codes
p1667
p0171 system too lean bank a
p0174 system too lean bank b
p1319 oxygen sensor slow response a,d
p0150 bank 2 sensor 1oxygen cycle fault - this o2 sensor has been renewed - do fault codes throw up after for a while ,did clear all codes, and again I thank you
 
no maf ok cleaned as well with electrical cleaner, has flat spot when wanting to overtake for instance, changes down but lacking the power to
 
LPG gives you a 5% loss of power being harder to fire. But you can feel this when you pull away at the lights. When you get the petrol side sorted then have a look at LPG SERVICING GARAGE. AUTO LPG booklet in petrol station give details of garages near to your location.
 
You do need to get it running right on petrol.
I would suggest you need it looking at by someone that is familiar with the system you have fitted.

Just wondering if the system is struggling with the LPG & throwing the fault codes up accordingly.
What happens if the vehicle is run on petrol only, are you still getting problems & fault codes?
Next thought is does the P38 need any form of emulator?

As far as plugs etc are concerned I've run my classic on LPG for some 20 years & have only had an occasional misfire which has always been a plug. As mine is manually switched I can use that to diagnose issues - if it runs fine on LPG but not petrol it's a fuelling fault (which with mine has been an ECU failure - 4CU - or fuel pump/fuel pump wiring) & if it runs badly on both it's an ignition issue, the last being a plug on two occasions.
I use standard NGKs.
Leads are standard.
 
Ratae said:
You do need to get it running right on petrol.
I would suggest you need it looking at by someone that is familiar with the system you have fitted.

Just wondering if the system is struggling with the LPG & throwing the fault codes up accordingly.
What happens if the vehicle is run on petrol only, are you still getting problems & fault codes?
Next thought is does the P38 need any form of emulator?

As far as plugs etc are concerned I've run my classic on LPG for some 20 years & have only had an occasional misfire which has always been a plug. As mine is manually switched I can use that to diagnose issues - if it runs fine on LPG but not petrol it's a fuelling fault (which with mine has been an ECU failure - 4CU - or fuel pump/fuel pump wiring) & if it runs badly on both it's an ignition issue, the last being a plug on two occasions.
I use standard NGKs.
Leads are standard.
Click to expand...
Would suspect it will be a single point system on a classic and they do tend to be a bit more tolerant on ignition problems
 
foxy1 said:
no maf ok cleaned as well with electrical cleaner, has flat spot when wanting to overtake for instance, changes down but lacking the power to
Click to expand...
What was the evidence the MAF's ok? ie unplugged, swapped for known good one, diagnostics etc.?
I would look at the oxygen sensor next not sure if mentioned but is it a genuine one?
 
Rangie Disco Sportsman said:
Would suspect it will be a single point system on a classic and they do tend to be a bit more tolerant on ignition problems
Click to expand...
Yes. It's on a BLOS.
The 4CU ECU only deals with the petrol fuelling & plays no part in the ignition so very basic.
Not tolerant of cheapie pattern parts.
 
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