I replaced my autobox cooler and hoses on my 4.6 HSE about a year into ownership with Britpart from Island 4x4. I owned the car for over 12 years until I sold it and never had a problem since fitting it which is more than can be said about the original !! Biggest problem with replacing the...

:behindsofa: I likes results and closure to a problem !!! :)

The 3.5 V8 is pretty bulletproof with no slipped liner/porous block problems. However, the ignition system needs to be in tip top condition. The V8, 3.5 I had also had poor performance when I first had it and I discovered shortly afterwards that the camshaft was badly worn with hardly any...

:behindsofa: I know that the nuts are M7 which is sort of non standard-but available off the likes of Ebay. It could be that the bolt is also M7, but not sure.

Can't beat pressure bleeding :D

:behindsofa: It's the one at the left hand end of the engine....the one nearest the drive belts and coolant reservoir. No. 4 is the one nearest the battery end. :) The injector is "Jacked out" using the retaining studs and a small Torx socket after removing the nuts. They can be a pain to...

Have a look at this............... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=roZ3_gbzp3U

Any propriatary brand will be ok as they all supply Land Rover. B & B, LUK, Valeo, AP etc. Take your pick but buy the complete kit comprising Plate, Cover, Bearing/Slave Cylinder and Master Cylinder. You may need Dual Mass Flywheel (If fitted), if it shows signs of wear.

During the few years of Freelander 1 ownership, I have replaced the drop links with, Genuine LR, Delphi and Lemforder...they are all crap lasting just over a year. Have also tried Britpart which lasted around 9 months. The car is never used off road, just normal everyday motoring. All in all...

:behindsofa: The problem could very well be in the Becm as non operation of the rear wiper is a classic sign (Well covered). Another sign of Becm problems is spurious indicator bulb failure messages.

One of the screw type cup hooks is ideal and easy to pull them out with just your fingers. :behindsofa:

Clamp Part no. WAN000010L Cost £6.00 (Genuine LR part)

Some years ago, I went round the LR test track in a Defender. The instructor switched the engine off just as I was at the bottom of a dip that was filled with water which was pi**ing in through the door seals. He said to me "put it into low range 2nd gear, leave your feet off the pedals and...

:behindsofa: My 2002, TD4 also has the fuel gauge on the left of the cluster. :)

TDL100200, Price around £1.50 ea. + VAT Island 4X4 and other LR parts stockists should have them

From experience I can confirm that removal of the hub from the swivel housing can be a bastid of a job. As others have said plenty of Plus Gas or similar...Forget the WD40 complete waste of time & money, and brute force is needed as they get well & truly rusted in. You would think they were...

:behindsofa: Nuts also have various descriptions....Hexagon, Castillated, half, Nyloc, Brazil, Walnut,Pecan and Hazel to name a few. Washers come in various types...Fan Disc, spring, Dish, front loading, top loading and Pot...

:behindsofa: M5 X 30mm long.....Make sure it's threaded all the way up (Setscrew). :bolt:

If there is no "toothed" reluctor ring, the sensor is getting a signal from a magnetic section on the wheel bearing assembly..the same as my 2002 Facelift TD4 rear wheels. I discovered this whilst I had the rear hubs off a coulple of weeks ago to do the rear suspension bushes. The rear ABS...

Remove the door card, as stated and carefully peel the waterproof membrane partially back to gain access to the latch/solenoid. There is a multi pin connector above the latch...just follow the wires and disconnect. You will see the Torx retaining screws on the edge of the door, remove them and...