G

GawaineT

Member
I am in need of replacing the passenger side oil deal at the wheel end of the axle, been warned by my local garage its a 4 hour job which means a £300 bill to change a £10 (ish) seal?

Is this a correct timing? I've tackled other jobs but been warned they are hard to do due to stuff bring seized etc
 
GawaineT said:
I am in need of replacing the passenger side oil deal at the wheel end of the axle, been warned by my local garage its a 4 hour job which means a £300 bill to change a £10 (ish) seal?

Is this a correct timing? I've tackled other jobs but been warned they are hard to do due to stuff bring seized etc
Click to expand...

In a garage on a ramp should not be more than about 2 hrs maybe your local garage works on the Robinson theory.
 
If its seized, you are better spending your time freeing it off than theirs, you are much cheaper. the basics are simple,plenty of plus gas and take your time. heavy hammer and a suitable drift(blunt chisel) soak it in plus gas ,have a brew ,bash it a bit,more plus gas another brew and so on. it will come off. if you remove all the bolts and try to rotate it slightly then rotate it the other way you will break the seal .then start to knock it outwards, than rotate again and repeat as required.
 
tarphenry said:
If its seized, you are better spending your time freeing it off than theirs, you are much cheaper. the basics are simple,plenty of plus gas and take your time. heavy hammer and a suitable drift(blunt chisel) soak it in plus gas ,have a brew ,bash it a bit,more plus gas another brew and so on. it will come off. if you remove all the bolts and try to rotate it slightly then rotate it the other way you will break the seal .then start to knock it outwards, than rotate again and repeat as required.
Click to expand...

Or you could use the more mechanically correct method i described in a thread a while ago. :D:D:D
 
It takes a while as everything tends to be rusted up unless someone has had it off recently.
 
From experience I can confirm that removal of the hub from the swivel housing can be a bastid of a job. As others have said plenty of Plus Gas or similar...Forget the WD40 complete waste of time & money, and brute force is needed as they get well & truly rusted in. You would think they were welded together !!!
After removal, dress the lumps and bumps off with a file or angle grinder and also give the bore of the swivel housing a good polish with a flap wheel. During reassembly, coat all mating surfaces with Copper Grease.
Don't forget to buy a new driveshaft nut for reassembly.
 
:lalala:
 

Attachments

  • Aghhhh.jpg
    Aghhhh.jpg
    75.6 KB · Views: 663
The problem with a puller is that you need to fracture the rust film and hitting the end of the puller will transfer most of the impact through the c/v joint not the rust line
 
tarphenry said:
The problem with a puller is that you need to fracture the rust film and hitting the end of the puller will transfer most of the impact through the c/v joint not the rust line
Click to expand...

Putting weight through the drive shaft into the CV joint and diff is not a good idea. ;)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

awkwardbob
P38A Soggy, Mouldy, Leaky P38
2
Replies
37
Views
4K
cornishboater
cornishboater
xDParis64
Freelander 1 Converting from wasted spark to distributor (or Visa Versa)
Replies
0
Views
391
xDParis64
xDParis64
MikeFl4
P38A M51 Diesel – Its just not running right!! (video explanation for ease)
Replies
15
Views
3K
Datatek
Datatek
Goc3k
Discovery 1 SOLD 1997 300TDI manual D1, Winchester
Replies
16
Views
4K
Goc3k
Goc3k
S
L322 3.6L TDV8 - Both Turbo's Need Replacing
Replies
13
Views
8K
myfirstl322
M