Well, I had a good rummage but don't have a card larger than 16G, but I did just plug it into the Nanocom and it worked fine. It was from a single board computer with multiple partitions, the first being formatted FAT32. I have never used the Nanocom utility, I almost never use Windows, I have...

In addition to what Fery said, I use a 2G card (much bigger than you will ever need) which I think was in an old camera. It's difficult to find a small card these days. 32G is the smallest Argos list. I'm about to gout to the local classic car meet (my D2 is classed as a classic!!), but I'll...

The air flow looks about OK, I have compared it with a recording I took on mine some time ago, however, if you could upload the whole (CSV) file so all the parameters can be looked at that would really help diagnose this. All I can say is that mine has no throttle delay from hot or cold start...

Can you record the "inputs fueling" from start and on a short drive and then upload them here?

If you are not already overloaded with "how tos", there is a good write up here http://www.discovery2.co.uk/waterpump.html

You are welcome! I thought the bolts may be with threadlock already applied, but looking at pictures at various suppliers seem to show an ordinary flanged head bolt so I can't imagine what they are! I hope you get it sorted.

Could it be number 2 in? https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/parts/index/part/id/L5.L5G.L5G01.L5G01155/brand/land-rover/

Well done!! After 6 hours on a ferry, 6 hours on the road I got here to find you have sorted it! It's really made my day. Hard work for you, many lessons learnt. You will not regret buying the nanocom. Enjoy the D2 now.

The mod is for the SVS or shuttle valve switch error, I don’t think it is for other errors, but it does seem to need doing on all eventually.

20200205 means 5th February 2020 as the “release” date of the firmware. Mine is 12th February 2018 which I think is the release before yours. The release notes tell you what the changes are, but from memory it is only minor. I am just packing to get a ferry (not Fery:):):):):)) but when I...

This is all intriguing! And I am using Linux, not M$ or Apple, however, I got my Nanocom out the car and photoed the actual sequence on mine, starting with the info page on its version page: Nanocom Version Press TD5 Engine Press Green Right Arrow --> And on mine, you get.... Maybe this...

Well done! For the wire, I stripped a bit of domestic (0.5mm?) mains flex and used the green/yellow for the YG connection and brown for the "ground", purely for camouflage.

OK, you are nearly there! From your page 1, click "TD5 Engine", then go to page 2 and you should see Hope this helps. It can all get very frustrating and disillusioning at times...but keep going.

Just to approach from a different link, I have just tried https://emulator.nanocom-diagnostics.com/ which worked just as Fery said, but in the web browser. To ask an obvious question (sorry) you did get the unlock codes for the D2 TD5? I don't mean to insult your intelligence, but sometimes...

Thank you for that kind offer, but we are on the south coast of Hampshire at present, but are looking to relocate to Shropshire if we can find somewhere suitable!

Ours is not that bad, but I got worried about tales of the cardan joint letting go with little warning. I didn't feel confident enough to rebuild the joints because we are taking it to France shortly. I ordered an uprated prop (with grease points!) from Grove Engineering, they seem to have a...

Good luck with it, it is certainly worth giving a go. I am waiting for a new front prop as the cardan joint is looking a bit iffy and there is a bit of vibration at over 60 mph. It depends who you talk to what the opinion is of how much play is normal for that bearing.

Have a look at https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/transfer-box-front-output-bearing-and-oil-seal-renewal.81771/ and https://forums.lr4x4.com/topic/25053-transfer-box-front-output-bearing/ Why do you need to change yours? What are the symptoms? Cheers and good luck.

If the resistance of the "cable" between R6 pin 86 and C0158 pin 29 really is 103 Ohms, that will need investigating at some point as it should be more like the other 2, but the TD5 doesn't NEED glowplugs to start until it gets seriously cold. Neither the EAT nor ABS ECUs can inhibit starting...

Before you condemn the ECM to the dustbin, it may be worth doing a simple continuity check between R1 pin 86 in the fuse box and C0658 pin 5, the ECM connector. And just one final thought, if the only thing wrong with the ECM is it cannot switch R1, you could link 30 and 87 of R1, which will...