I did just find this which, although in Italian and on a Defender does show the correct pump and gives me some more info on what other gaskets and O rings I'll need to get, mainly for the centrifugal filter housing.
I did just find this which, although in Italian and on a Defender does show the correct pump and gives me some more info on what other gaskets and O rings I'll need to get, mainly for the centrifugal filter housing.
Opps sorry. I did see the link in # 2, so the link I posted had a similar single bolt so followed that as a lead and did think a Td5 is as easy as my engine It will teach me to keep quiet now on a vehicle I’ve never owned.
So another link which states Td5 water pump and PS pump which by now I expect u have already seen.
No, I haven't seen it, so I'll give that a look to as it may be in English!!
So thanks again mate!!
Opps sorry. I did see the link in # 2, so the link I posted had a similar single bolt so followed that as a lead and did think a Td5 is as easy as my engine It will teach me to keep quiet now on a vehicle I’ve never owned.
So another link which states Td5 water pump and PS pump which by now I expect u have already seen.
Think I will stick with V8s, with all that faffing
. Mind the little "mudball" 2.0mpi has water pump on back of the PS pump too, but at least I can see it
.J
Exactly it IS feckin buried!!!Think I will stick with V8s, with all that faffing
Mind the little "mudball" 2.0mpi has water pump on back of the PS pump too, but at least I can see it
J
And now, although I can order a new pump in France, (Sh!tepart unfortunately) all the other gaskets etc for when I replace stuff I will have to take off are proving problematic.
I will have to search for part nos on UK sites and then try and order/search for them over here.
I am talking here of the pump seal ERR6711, whose number I do know, and the bits that seal the centrifugal pump to the block, which I don't!! The pump at least comes with its three O rings.
I will have to search for part nos on UK sites and then try and order/search for them over here.
I am talking here of the pump seal ERR6711, whose number I do know, and the bits that seal the centrifugal pump to the block, which I don't!! The pump at least comes with its three O rings.
PopPops
Well-Known Member
If you are not already overloaded with "how tos", there is a good write up here http://www.discovery2.co.uk/waterpump.htmlNo, I haven't seen it, so I'll give that a look to as it may be in English!!
So thanks again mate!!
@PopPops , mate, this is the best write up I have seen and interestingly he doesn't seem to use all the gaskets I was expecting to have to get. He also doesn't remove the turbo, which is how Rave also says to do it, i.e. you don't need to.
But he is the first to say "take the big oil filter off".
So thanks ever so for finding this for me.
I spent over an hour exhaustively making a list of part numbers for all the gaskets.
before going onto LZ and having a nose around!So cheers, mate!
Well today I did the job.
Not easy but not particularly hard, just fiddly and I needed to think a bit as to what to leave in place and what to remove.
I didn't touch the Air con pump as I couldn't see why I would need to. So that was good. I also left the drain pipe attached to the bottom of the rotor housing and just disconnected it from the sump. I managed to wriggle it out and back in again.
I also only disconnected the oil feed pipe to the turbo at the turbo, it was easily worked around still connected to the motor. Just took the turbo out.
Didn't disconnect any electrics, not even the batt.
I also took the opportunity to deal with the stripped thread in the rotor filter housing.
Biggest pita on reassembly was, as usual, the bolt holding the turbo shield to the back of the turbo. Only time I used bad language!
Alarming rattles on start up, which was a shame, if it was an old skool diesel or petrol I'd have known how to turn the engine over until the oil pressure light went off, but being all electrickeryed up I didn't dare do anything.
But it ran up OK and I left it running until the pipes got warm. Only way to get it proper hot will be to take it down the road, which I'll do tomoz.
I think the pump had been changed or fiddled with before cos when I took it off I noticed in one place there were two O rings where there should have been only one!
The pump bearings were well shot and and as usual when doing this I do wonder how the feckin thing was workin at all!
Could LR have made it more difficult to change the coolant pump?
Not much!
Anyway took about 5 hours with interruptions like rain and a gardener turning up to be "interviewed" i.e. she tried to make work for herself. Fair enough can't blame her. We compromised. At least she quoted an hourly rate.
So thanks again to all who have contributed to this thread with advice and links.
I'll only update if there is a problem or anything of interest.
Not easy but not particularly hard, just fiddly and I needed to think a bit as to what to leave in place and what to remove.
I didn't touch the Air con pump as I couldn't see why I would need to. So that was good. I also left the drain pipe attached to the bottom of the rotor housing and just disconnected it from the sump. I managed to wriggle it out and back in again.
I also only disconnected the oil feed pipe to the turbo at the turbo, it was easily worked around still connected to the motor. Just took the turbo out.
Didn't disconnect any electrics, not even the batt.
I also took the opportunity to deal with the stripped thread in the rotor filter housing.
Biggest pita on reassembly was, as usual, the bolt holding the turbo shield to the back of the turbo. Only time I used bad language!
Alarming rattles on start up, which was a shame, if it was an old skool diesel or petrol I'd have known how to turn the engine over until the oil pressure light went off, but being all electrickeryed up I didn't dare do anything
.But it ran up OK and I left it running until the pipes got warm. Only way to get it proper hot will be to take it down the road, which I'll do tomoz.
I think the pump had been changed or fiddled with before cos when I took it off I noticed in one place there were two O rings where there should have been only one!
The pump bearings were well shot and and as usual when doing this I do wonder how the feckin thing was workin at all!
Could LR have made it more difficult to change the coolant pump?
Not much!
Anyway took about 5 hours with interruptions like rain and a gardener turning up to be "interviewed" i.e. she tried to make work for herself. Fair enough can't blame her. We compromised. At least she quoted an hourly rate.
So thanks again to all who have contributed to this thread with advice and links.
I'll only update if there is a problem or anything of interest.
How do you say to a middle aged lady gardener, "Can I take your pics and then put them on a forum for hairy assed LR owners?"Wot no pics?
Of the gardener
At least your sorted for the towing back
J
She's nice but no pin up!!
If tomoz goes OK I will be very happy to tow the wife's car back on the noo trailer.
I have the part to fix the 3 amigos, but that can wait!
well, I thought I was sorted, no leaks anywhere now since I changed the seal on the drain plug behind and below the rad.
BUT I can't seem to fill the expansion tank.
I have done the "get the engine hot, hold the expansion tank in the air and watch it p!ss out the bleed screw on the top pipe" thing several times. but despite topping it up, only when cold, I still keep finding it down on fluid.
i am confident there is no head gasket problem, it was only ever a question of a worn pump leaking, nowhere else. But I do understand that they are prone to airlocks.
I'd be very grateful for any ideas as to what to do about it. In two days time I'll be driving it to the southwest of France towing another car on a trailer, so I could do without the grief.
the temp gauge incidentally never goes above normal.
Thanks in advance for any ideas.
Stan
BUT I can't seem to fill the expansion tank.
I have done the "get the engine hot, hold the expansion tank in the air and watch it p!ss out the bleed screw on the top pipe" thing several times. but despite topping it up, only when cold, I still keep finding it down on fluid.
i am confident there is no head gasket problem, it was only ever a question of a worn pump leaking, nowhere else. But I do understand that they are prone to airlocks.
I'd be very grateful for any ideas as to what to do about it. In two days time I'll be driving it to the southwest of France towing another car on a trailer, so I could do without the grief.
the temp gauge incidentally never goes above normal.
Thanks in advance for any ideas.
Stan
Hi all.
Have since sorted it and am now in our place in France. After revving the engine a bit once filled then topping it up a couple of times it now sits on the level just fine.
But towing a car on a trailer to our place has revealed that the torque converter at least, is on its way out.
what next eh?
Have since sorted it and am now in our place in France. After revving the engine a bit once filled then topping it up a couple of times it now sits on the level just fine.
But towing a car on a trailer to our place has revealed that the torque converter at least, is on its way out.
what next eh?
PopPops
Well-Known Member
Good news all went well with the cooling systemHi all.
Have since sorted it and am now in our place in France. After revving the engine a bit once filled then topping it up a couple of times it now sits on the level just fine.
But towing a car on a trailer to our place has revealed that the torque converter at least, is on its way out.
what next eh?
but what are the symptoms that make you think the torque converter is on the way out? Have you done a "stall test"?
Nope, but I am going to this a.m. We had a hailstorm yessdi and before that the internet wasn't working, so I had other things to do. Pressure is off me as we have the other car to use now.Good news all went well with the cooling system
But thanks for the concern.
I'll prolly start a new thread on all this.
Hi Stan, sorry to hear you think the TC is on its way out. A mate of mine rebuilds Triumph Stag/Rover/E-Type auto boxes & he sends the TC's away to be re-furbished somewhere near Goodwood I think & to me I didn't think the prices sounded too bad. I'll get the details & post them on here as they might be able to do D2 TC's but lets hope you don't need it, all the best.
Cheers mate.
since posting this I have done the stall test and it came up perfect, bang on 2700 revs. so I am no longer worried about either the TC or the gearbox. I think the problem lies elsewhere, maybe in the electrickery or the cooler, or the sensor being too sensitive. Or me driving/towing a heavyish weight not quite in the right manner. In the heat.
