Neptune19522
Active Member
I just need that brick, I have the rest...
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
That german site works in english too https://www.m1n1.de/en/produkt/dtc0006a-brickbox-29053-60002-reparatur-upgrade-modul-2/
Neptune19522
Active Member
I have tried Craddock's before but when I tried to order it they said "out of stock" , as did Rimmer Brothers, Paddocks and several others but perhaps I should try again.
Does 'Nanocom' and 'Foxwell' have the ability to reprogram the vehicle as well as TestBook? When I find another ECU I am sure that I will need to code it into my Disco II!
Also I have som 10AS units to reprogram and 'learn' some keys for my Series vehicle.
Does 'Nanocom' and 'Foxwell' have the ability to reprogram the vehicle as well as TestBook? When I find another ECU I am sure that I will need to code it into my Disco II!
Also I have som 10AS units to reprogram and 'learn' some keys for my Series vehicle.
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Nanocom can do everything testbook can and even more and you can buy unlock code for 10AS in defender kit, Foxwell can have some glitches when it comes to security settings or fob programming, though if you want to have coverage for more modells there is the Hawkeye total but it doesnt work only for fobs which have the long barcode
Might it not be an idea to send the ECU off to be chiptuned by one of the well known companies?
Then you'd get an upgrade and a repaired ECU. Especially if you are honest and tell them that it is slightly bust?
Then you'd get an upgrade and a repaired ECU. Especially if you are honest and tell them that it is slightly bust?
Neptune19522
Active Member
Sierrafery,
Spent my time working on circuits and had little contact with any test equipment other than the C.A.R.D.'s system and its successor. So which test equipment would you use? Does the Nanocom come as one stand alone pice of equipment or are there several versions? I need to look at my Disco 2, my essentially modern 'Defender' aka my 1978 Series III, and my Series II rebuild is on a110 chassis but will have some L322 components and even some R800 bits; bit of an electrical mongrel really, but it should occupy my time.
I have never had to purchase any test equipment other than my oscilloscope therefore any guidance would be appreciated.
Spent my time working on circuits and had little contact with any test equipment other than the C.A.R.D.'s system and its successor. So which test equipment would you use? Does the Nanocom come as one stand alone pice of equipment or are there several versions? I need to look at my Disco 2, my essentially modern 'Defender' aka my 1978 Series III, and my Series II rebuild is on a110 chassis but will have some L322 components and even some R800 bits; bit of an electrical mongrel really, but it should occupy my time.
I have never had to purchase any test equipment other than my oscilloscope therefore any guidance would be appreciated.
Neptune19522
Active Member
Stanleysteamer,
The more I work on my Disco II the more I think it was sold to me by Butch Caserdy or the Sundance Kid! The connector to the xyz switch was missing it's anti back out, the xyz switch was out of adjustment, the backlight on the odometer was broken etc. The ECU looks OK so I tried talking the lid off. Three of the screws came out easily but the forth sheared immediately and all were rusty, more than just a petiena of rust as well. The lid was well glued down, therefore I think there must be a considerable amount of corrosion on some, if not all, of the components. I have considered a new one but they are all 'out of stock'. Also there is a fault in that on kickdown the engine goes quite well until you pull out to overtake then it hiccups - not very comforting to drive like that so I will look for a good second hand one. But thank you for your thoughts it might be a good last ditch plan...
The more I work on my Disco II the more I think it was sold to me by Butch Caserdy or the Sundance Kid! The connector to the xyz switch was missing it's anti back out, the xyz switch was out of adjustment, the backlight on the odometer was broken etc. The ECU looks OK so I tried talking the lid off. Three of the screws came out easily but the forth sheared immediately and all were rusty, more than just a petiena of rust as well. The lid was well glued down, therefore I think there must be a considerable amount of corrosion on some, if not all, of the components. I have considered a new one but they are all 'out of stock'. Also there is a fault in that on kickdown the engine goes quite well until you pull out to overtake then it hiccups - not very comforting to drive like that so I will look for a good second hand one. But thank you for your thoughts it might be a good last ditch plan...
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Here's about nanocom https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/downloads see the description guides, the shop and eventually the emulator.... i attached the function list for foxwell, it's cheaper but less "skilled" with complex programming
I doubt you'll get a new old-stock ECU now. Secondhand ones should be available but they will have risen in price since I bought mine, at £80. Try LR breakers as at least they will give you some (tiny) guarantee. If it is that rusty it sounds as if a PO did quite a bit of wading as they don't normally rust. When all this happened with mine I initially looked around for someone to repair it and there were a few places, but some turned out to be right cowboys, so in the end I took it off the one I had given it to, before they could do it more harm and just kept it.
Fitting the secondhand one wasn't straight forward as I was very green about all this. (Still am pretty green) I didn't know you had to make it "talk" to the BCU and didn't have my Foxwell then, so had to use two friends, a winch, a trailer and a LR tow vehicle just to get it to a garage to do the job. Which hurt!
So if you do get a 2nd hand one you'll need some form of diagnostic to make it do this and also apparently to enter the injector codes, which I had written down and given to the garage, although I found my bit of paper with quite different numbers written on it once I got it back!
Nice to hear you and @sierrafery having such a deep discussion about all this as we are also learning from it!
(Wish I understood electrickery more)
Best of luck with your cowboy vehicle!
.
Neptune19522
Active Member
Update:
I purchased a Nanocom and a new, well second hand, engine ECU, not much change from £1k... My computer savvy niece came round to help and we could got the engine to fire! But only for about one half second. Only locking and unlocking the vehicle would allow a second start. Attempts to get the engine ECU to shake hands with the BCM were thwarted. This may well be "operator error" as my experience is all linked to the harness and what went on inside all those boxes I linked together was a black art. I used to call down the engineer to confirm his 'box' was working; several engineers were required for complex systems, (NB the 38A Range Rover has 52 ECU's or 53 if you count the one that organised the other 52...).
I therefore see three problems:-
1/ The Engine and Body ECU's need to be linked such that they can hand shake efficiently. Not sure how to effect this?
2/ I need extensive training on Nanocom. (I'm Dyslexic and mostly a kinaesthetic learner - hands on not reading a book...). Anyone got an idiots guide to Nanocom's?
3/ I am of the opinion that the keys are working well in switching the alarm on and off; most of the time! I had thought to try the EKA code - which I have - however the door and ignition locks are different such that I cannot use the drivers door lock. Before I start putting that code in via the IDC probes onto the two wires from the BCM to Drivers Door, does anybody out there have any other other way of entering the EKA; if indeed it is needed?
Next update when we have some progress...
I purchased a Nanocom and a new, well second hand, engine ECU, not much change from £1k... My computer savvy niece came round to help and we could got the engine to fire! But only for about one half second. Only locking and unlocking the vehicle would allow a second start. Attempts to get the engine ECU to shake hands with the BCM were thwarted. This may well be "operator error" as my experience is all linked to the harness and what went on inside all those boxes I linked together was a black art. I used to call down the engineer to confirm his 'box' was working; several engineers were required for complex systems, (NB the 38A Range Rover has 52 ECU's or 53 if you count the one that organised the other 52...).
I therefore see three problems:-
1/ The Engine and Body ECU's need to be linked such that they can hand shake efficiently. Not sure how to effect this?
2/ I need extensive training on Nanocom. (I'm Dyslexic and mostly a kinaesthetic learner - hands on not reading a book...). Anyone got an idiots guide to Nanocom's?
3/ I am of the opinion that the keys are working well in switching the alarm on and off; most of the time! I had thought to try the EKA code - which I have - however the door and ignition locks are different such that I cannot use the drivers door lock. Before I start putting that code in via the IDC probes onto the two wires from the BCM to Drivers Door, does anybody out there have any other other way of entering the EKA; if indeed it is needed?
Next update when we have some progress...
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
Go with nanocom to Td5 Engine - Utility - Learn security code then after it confirms it's learned the engine will run
Neptune19522
Active Member
Serrafery,
Thanks for lead in but I do not have any 'Utility' icon on my screen. The Screen has TD5 Engine + engine picture, TD5 Map + engine picture, SLABS with ABS (in red) and Valeo BCM with picture of locked padlocked and key. Nothing about utility! I suspect the locked symbol is my problem; how do I unlock said lock?
Could I have a newer Nanocom than you? Or is there some other difference?
Thanks for lead in but I do not have any 'Utility' icon on my screen. The Screen has TD5 Engine + engine picture, TD5 Map + engine picture, SLABS with ABS (in red) and Valeo BCM with picture of locked padlocked and key. Nothing about utility! I suspect the locked symbol is my problem; how do I unlock said lock?
Could I have a newer Nanocom than you? Or is there some other difference?
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
push on Td5 engine and it will open a menu, then on the bottom line push the right green arrow which will lead you to the second page - Ultility then push on "learn security code" then exit with the X in red,turn ignition off and wait 60 seconds untill you unplug nanocom
all those menus on nanocom first page have several submenus with options
do some training by clicking on everything before you work on the vehicle here: https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/downloads and select "emulator" and click with the mouse where you are supposed to push with your finger in reality .
there are also guides for menus on that support page, some with video
I'm up to help but i dont have the energy nor the time to explain everything this way
all those menus on nanocom first page have several submenus with options
do some training by clicking on everything before you work on the vehicle here: https://www.nanocom-diagnostics.com/downloads and select "emulator" and click with the mouse where you are supposed to push with your finger in reality .
there are also guides for menus on that support page, some with video
I'm up to help but i dont have the energy nor the time to explain everything this way
Neptune19522
Active Member
Nether the emulator or indeed my Nanocom follow the path you have defined. I think those very helpful software types have invented a update version as they appear to like doing almost every hour...
sierrafery
Well-Known Member
The emulator definitely works on that cos i just checked ...and if you push Utility it will open the learn security.... i saved the pic of it now
PopPops
Well-Known Member
Just to approach from a different link, I have just tried https://emulator.nanocom-diagnostics.com/ which worked just as Fery said, but in the web browser.
To ask an obvious question (sorry) you did get the unlock codes for the D2 TD5? I don't mean to insult your intelligence, but sometimes it's worth checking the basics.
Neptune19522
Active Member
I am sorry to disagree with Fery I can only assume that Nanocom reproduces the version we each have on the emulator as well as on the Nanocom itself. As mine was only registered this morning I feel that I would have the newer version. My page 2 has ACE + picture, D2 Autogearbox + picture and D2 airbag with picture - in red; nothing about utility.
PopPops,
Thanks for your input; I am open to any help. I believe my niece did download the required codes but she is having as much fun with this self important computer as I do i. e. it does what it wants witness some of my, predictive text, modified writings.
Sorry for large picture this Apple Mac has a mind of it's own!
PopPops,
Thanks for your input; I am open to any help. I believe my niece did download the required codes but she is having as much fun with this self important computer as I do i. e. it does what it wants witness some of my, predictive text, modified writings.
Sorry for large picture this Apple Mac has a mind of it's own!
Attachments
PopPops
Well-Known Member
OK, you are nearly there! From your page 1, click "TD5 Engine", then go to page 2 and you should see
Hope this helps. It can all get very frustrating and disillusioning at times...but keep going.
