I am actually going to be in the other direction for at least part of the weekend! I am heading down to Southampton to help a mate pull his engine out, as he's working on fitting a M57 instead. I may be about on Sunday, but don't know if I'll be down there the whole weekend or not as yet - I...

Urgh - pity I'm not still out in the states... I could have come and had a look in person, and I've got a friend in PA aswell I would have visited at the same time! Stupid virus! Maybe I should look at doing a USA P38 trip at some point as there's a guy in CT aswell with a couple of P38's that...

No problem - I try not to blatently paste my website everywhere, as I'm more into the forums to try and help people, rather than make a quick buck! But ask and you shall receive... p38webshop.co.uk is my website for most of my P38 related parts that I work on. If you don't want the old one...

That's annoying... however, I know a guy who repairs faulty switchpacks (and currently has 8 of them on his bench in pieces being worked on...). He also sells repaired ones on exchange for the fault one aswell from memory :rolleyes: ;)

Have you had phantom locking/unlocking when you've driven it? eg all locks locking/unlocking? If you've had ANY random locking or unlocking and you have a refurb latch to fit, then I'd do that first and go from there. Tailgate unlocks by grounding through the CDL switch in the drivers latch...

Just had a look back. If the wires are showing a continuity to ground all the time, (even with the switches disconnected?) then it could be that the wiring has been caught by the window regulator and shorting them out when it shouldn't be. That will also give issues. I also had one over the...

Sorry, I've had a busy week working on other things so haven't been online much - yet alone on forums! Just had a quick look at your switched - the on/off for locked/unlocked *might* be round the wrong way. If "ON" is the switch connecting the wires, then that should be unlocked (as the CDL...

There is not point driving the superlock motor. It is ONLY used to superlock the door. The door locking is done in 2 stages. The normal central locking is done by driving the motor common as -ve and the CDL motor wire as +ve, which then drives the mechanism to lock the door. The internal...

I hire out the syncmates for all engine types, but don't hire out my Nanocom, sorry. I am happy to do plug ins for people if they are around where I am in Swindon/Wiltshire and would happily go out to give someone local a hand though.

I would say you definitely have a switchpack problem if the rear/left isn't working from it at all. Front/Left... erm, could be switch pack related, but could also be the outstation in the door where the relay is. It's a double coil/contact relay, so by default the output pins to the motor are...

No problem - I have just finished making a batch of 15 of them, so have a decent level of stock for a change! Yes, it plug inline between the RF receiver in the vehicle and the BECM - you use the old RF receiver, and then the filter just acts as the go-between filtering out everything but a...

Pin 7 on the round connector goes to ground point E0556D Which is Pin 8 on the round connector goes to pin 37 on the engine ECU connector (White wire) and is connected to the wiper on the throttle potentiometer Pin 9 on the round connector goes to pin 33 on the engine ECU connector (Yellow/Grey...

The fob filters we do are available on my website - p38webshop.co.uk and are £79.99 plus postage. The whole press remote thing is part of the passive immobiliser, which can be switched off with a nanocom etc. It uses the coil around the ignition barrel to excite an inductor in the fob, and...

Definitely check the microswitches out... I've had a number of BECMs come across my work bench in the last couple of months that are in full lockout, due to either the microswitches in the door latch being faulty, or in one case the EKA in the BECM not matching what the owner had been given, or...

That was just after I'd finishing the install of the new nav screen after painting and lacquering that trim. One of my headlight switch tabs had broken off awhile ago, but the other one broke off when fitting it to this trim. As I've converted all my dash switches to LED, I didn't have another...

The alternator light is driven by a Brown/Yellow wire that goes from the alternator to the BECM... Guess which connector it goes through? Correct... one of the ones in your picture that are green and horrible, I also cut them out and solder the wires together and heatshrink them. Cleaning...

Because it comes off the fuse box there. 5A at 5V is only 25W, which at 12V is a shade over 2A - not that much to be pulling from there... the cigar lighter/accessory socket in the loadspace (on later models) comes off F8 at the BECM which is 30A rated, and the wiring to the cig socket is...

Mine does it aswell sometimes... I replaced the door latch a few years ago with a brand new one (before I got into refurbishing them!) and I've also got upgraded receiver, so I don't get battery drain, and also have the antenna plugged in. It seems to do it randomly to me too. I wonder if it...

Regarding your SELECT NEUTRAL fault... I would check the 'Low Range' switch in the gear shift assembly. It's buried down under the H gate, but you can test it with a multimeter at the transfer case ECU - Pin 33 of C1319. Testing it on continuity, with one multimeter pin on ground and one on...

This all depends on what form of lockout it's in.. there are 2 - EKA lockout, where entering the EKA in either the driver's door with the key, or with diagnostics on a BECM of V36 or later will reset that lockout. You can't resync the key fob until that's been resolved as has already been...