I had colour coded gaffer tape on mine for years until a minor bump, shatered it, not worth repairing as it was so brittle, so I opted for a 5mm steel one, if yours did the same its just years of sun damage, well Ivery happy with this one

well I guess that just leaves your injectors, are they ok

Are you using any oil, I think if you cant feel and lost any power and the engine is a first time starter I be looking at the turbo for oil leaks

If you decide to Shame & Name them, then that would at least stop anyone else getting similar treatment, not to mention a drop in their income from no customers willing to trust them anymore

thats a bit far for me to pop uo and help from the New forest, but you may just get a bit of help now good luck

two miniut job to check the level, on the other hand, it not that hard to drive with out a clutch, its all about getting the rev's right, it just takes a bit of practice,

you still did not say where your from

HI Wonky, I cant see where your from, but if you add your region on your profile you may find someone close who would be willing to help you do it, but its not rocket science to bleed a clutch, generally its best with 2, on pushing the peddle and one doing the bleeding, if you are bleed from...

The clutch and brake fluid does comes from the same reservoir, but they have separate master cylinders, last year I replaced both my clutch slave and master cylinders it turned out to be problem with the steel feed pipe , original are very expensive, so I replaced mine with a flexible on from a...

the Brake pipes replacement have nothing to do with the clutch, bleeding the clutch can be difficult, so when you press the peddle were does it bite, if at the very bottom I would say in needs bleeding as you may have air in it, did they remove the gear box and TC box to fit the new 1/2 chassis...

Other car are designed to just disintegrate at slighted bump, seen lots of photo of smashed up cars only read on the impact was less than 20 mph

yes my renewal jump from £130 to £270, thats 115% increase, so I shopped around and got it for about a 10% increase, it pay to shop around

Yes to reduce your play to a minimum, replace the Drag link and ties bar, and check the wheel swival ball joint's are also good to do that just jack the wheel off the ground grab it top and bottom and try and lift it up and see if there is any exssesive play

The disco has two adjustable ball joint one on the drag link, and one on the tie bar the second one on the tie bar is not always adjustable, so you need to replace the completed tie bar if one side fails

When I replace mine I did both the Drag link and tie rod, I then took it to a tyre place for tracking to get it all checked, but as my car was so old, 23 years it was not in the computer they could not do it, so set mine uo with a string line, there is a detailed explanation on how to do it if...

nice to see you have found the problem, just select a suitable size hammer

OK so if you steering wheel is central, and you have pined the steering box and pitman arm with a pin/drill, you need to shorten the drag link to get the correct gap at the back of the tyre nearside tyre, when you have adjusted that and your happy its is correct check the offside with the string...

Watch this, but remember it for a car with a steering rack, so they need to adjust both track rod ends on the rack, were on a D2 you adjust one track rod end on the Drag link and one track rod end on the Tie bar

well maybe but, as soon as you connect it to the pitman arm it all need's checking again as even as few mm out of centre that you cant feel on the sterring wheel would then pull it all out of alignment, maybe one parallel, one toe out, you put it on the greased tin plated to make it easy to...

Yes the Drag link, primarily only adjust the offside front wheel, in doing so will in affect move the nearside out of alignment, so it needs to be the first wheel that is adjusted, if you do the near side first, then the offside, this will move the nearside out of adjustment and will need to be...