frostythor said:
I cant really see how much easier I can make it, it's a step by step guide, I have never taken off the sterring wheel, so once the sterring wheel is centred you need to make sure the Pitman arm is lined up on lineing up hole with the pin/drill on the spline before tightening up the nut, then remember the Drag link adjust the nearside and the Tie bar the off side front wheel and thats it in a nutshell, like you I have taken my old D2 to get it tracked but thesaid the new Laser equipment did not do it as the info was not in the COMPUTER, sad when they cant do a simple job with older equipment maybe ita cost thing. more profit using the computer, as oppossed to thier brains
Click to expand...

in each of your boxes, add a box of what needs to be adjusted. No criticism at all.

As for the new stuff, it relise on a car being stored in the data, rather than giving the current situation and the mech looking in a manual as to what it should be, then correcting it;)

J
 
I hope this explains id better fro you
tracking check2023.jpg
 
frostythor said:
I hope this explains id better fro you
Click to expand...

Thank you. That's very informative and helpful. I'll certainly file it for future reference.

And sorry if I might be missing something but the one bit that's confusing me right now is when you say -

"the thing to remember is the Drag link adjusts the near side wheel the tie bar adjusts the offside wheel"

Assuming that the drag link and track rod are connected and the drop arm is locked to the steering box, I can understand that adjusting the track rod would only move one wheel. But I would think that adjustments to the drag link would still cause both wheels to move via the track rod linkage.
 
Yes the Drag link, primarily only adjust the offside front wheel, in doing so will in affect move the nearside out of alignment, so it needs to be the first wheel that is adjusted, if you do the near side first, then the offside, this will move the nearside out of adjustment and will need to be checked again as a minimum if not re adjust now the nearside is now been corrected



  • So it should be check the steering in central
  • Adjust the drag link
  • Adjust the Tie bar,
  • Recheck both side

  • tracking check rec 2.jpg
 
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So, in theory (bear with me) you could track the wheels correctly without even having the drag link connected, although this wouldn't give you the correct straight a head setting.
 
well maybe but, as soon as you connect it to the pitman arm it all need's checking again as even as few mm out of centre that you cant feel on the sterring wheel would then pull it all out of alignment, maybe one parallel, one toe out, you put it on the greased tin plated to make it easy to adjust the ball joint's, once it all adjusted I roll the car back a few mtrs, the roll in forward again this allow's the suspention to settle back in is normal position, and then string lie both sides as it so quick as a final check
 
Watch this, but remember it for a car with a steering rack, so they need to adjust both track rod ends on the rack, were on a D2 you adjust one track rod end on the Drag link and one track rod end on the Tie bar

 
OK so if you steering wheel is central, and you have pined the steering box and pitman arm with a pin/drill, you need to shorten the drag link to get the correct gap at the back of the tyre nearside tyre, when you have adjusted that and your happy its is correct check the offside with the string line, it and if the string touches the front with a 1-2mm or less gap at the back of the tyre, it should be OK, if however it touches the back of the tyre with a gap at the front you will need to adjust the Tie bar as it to long, so once you have both wheel, with a 1-2mm gap at the back of the tyre, roll the car a few mtrs to settle the suspention, and recheck to make sure the gap is still the same
 
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Do you know what's wrong with tracking wrong drop arm 🤣😡 the draglink track rod won't fit into the diameter of the drop arm properly! So I have to change the drop arm that's on it for the old drop arm, but now I have to find an engineer that can remove the old drop arm off the old steering box 😔
 

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The old drop arm on left new style drop arm on the right the hole that trackrod goes into is too small to fit in properly
 

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Farmboy86 said:
Do you know what's wrong with tracking wrong drop arm 🤣😡 the draglink track rod won't fit into the diameter of the drop arm properly! So I have to change the drop arm that's on it for the old drop arm, but now I have to find an engineer that can remove the old drop arm off the old steering box 😔
Click to expand...
Well I am glad you found the problem. To be honest Iits the only answer as I had the steering box out of my son's the other month and it all went back no problem.
Big hammer might remove the old drop arm, with a bit of heat, otherwise it will need to be pulled off.
 
Anaconda said:
Well I am glad you found the problem. To be honest Iits the only answer as I had the steering box out of my son's the other month and it all went back no problem.
Big hammer might remove the old drop arm, with a bit of heat, otherwise it will need to be pulled off.
Click to expand...
Do you know wich drop arm was on it out of the pics I put up? im sure the 03/04 disco drop arm is different to older models
 
Farmboy86 said:
Do you know wich drop arm was on it out of the pics I put up? im sure the 03/04 disco drop arm is different to older models
Click to expand...

2 part numbers are given for the D2 RHD drag link -

QHG100000 [ - (V)1A719661 ]
QHG000040 [ (V)1A719662 - ]

If you look for this drag link Febi Bilstein 176065, it says that its compatible with both LR parts numbers above and the ball joint has a cone size of 17.8mm at its widest point.
 
NPG said:
2 part numbers are given for the D2 RHD drag link -

QHG100000 [ - (V)1A719661 ]
QHG000040 [ (V)1A719662 - ]

If you look for this drag link Febi Bilstein 176065, it says that its compatible with both LR parts numbers above and the ball joint has a cone size of 17.8mm at its widest point.
Click to expand...
I've just checked and the dranglink I purchased the other day is QHG000040 I'm confused now have I got the wrong drop arm or the wrong draglink 🤯
 
There are two drop arms listed on the LR parts list
Upto Vin 2A999999 use QJF100140
Vin 3A000000 on use QJF000020
Strange that the drag link c/no changes don't correspond with the c/no changes on the drop arms, mine you it is LR:).
 
Farmboy86 said:
I've just checked and the dranglink I purchased the other day is QHG000040 I'm confused now have I got the wrong drop arm or the wrong draglink 🤯
Click to expand...

I measured the ball joints on some old drag links and track rods that I have around and they all come up with 17.8mm cone size. Then I checked what's the story with the drop arms and there seems to be 2 types available on this site -

Steering Boxes and Drop Arms Land Rover Parts SP Panels

New doors and Body panels to fit Land Rover models - Buy direct from the manufacturer for high quality replacements panels. We also supply the full range of parts for your Land Rover model, be it Discovery, , Freelander, Range Rover of New Defender. Everything you need to keep your vehicle on...
www.sp-4x4.com

As to why there are 2 different part numbers (QJF000020 & QJF100140) I don't know but this might explain the issue you are having.
 
Right I've been back on it today definitely a draglink issue tried connecting the new draglink to the old steering box drop arm and it doesn't fit that either, tried old draglink on new drop arm fits fine! So there's definitely a size difference with the new draglink while putting them next to each other thers about quater inch difference in highth, have messaged john craddocks where part is from to see what's going on just waiting for a reply, strange this🤔
 

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