Wonky Donky 49

Wonky Donky 49

Member
Hi all, and apologies first of all. A newby!!
Ive had the discovery for many years and pottered with small bits. After failings its mot i took the plunge to get the 1/2 chassis replacement ££££££ got it done
Anyhow after driving away from the garage the 2nd and 4th gears were grinding when going in to gear. I went back.
It's been explained thats at the front end and nothing todo with the work done!
There were also two rear brake hoses replaced.

Any ideas what could be wrong please?

Many thanks
 
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two rear brake hoses were replaced im thinking the system was bled and there might be a problem with the slave cylinder.... when changing down from 5 to 4 ant high revs...the grind it intense. i like to use the gears to help slow down.... but its never made this grind before. But honest answer is i don't know... what was moved etc for the welding etc, I expected a bit more of a better reaction or onus ... rather than im a unlucky man with it not working straight after. there looking next week but im a bit of a wet rag always getting crapped on and is gonna be an excuse to charge me more than admit something has happened in the shop.
 
Wonky Donky 49 said:
two rear brake hoses were replaced im thinking the system was bled and there might be a problem with the slave cylinder.... when changing down from 5 to 4 ant high revs...the grind it intense. i like to use the gears to help slow down.... but its never made this grind before. But honest answer is i don't know... what was moved etc for the welding etc, I expected a bit more of a better reaction or onus ... rather than im a unlucky man with it not working straight after. there looking next week but im a bit of a wet rag always getting crapped on and is gonna be an excuse to charge me more than admit something has happened in the shop.
Click to expand...
On the other hand, the garage might be right. Coincident failures are not unknown.

How many miles do you reckon your clutch has done?
 
Wonky Donky 49 said:
Hi, 5 years but only done 1000 miles per year.
Click to expand...
I also agree they could be right but straight out of the garage..... that was second... didn't get into 4th till way down the road ...... sat in a farmers entrance with me head in me hands thinking what do i always get f888d over......
 
the Brake pipes replacement have nothing to do with the clutch, bleeding the clutch can be difficult, so when you press the peddle were does it bite, if at the very bottom I would say in needs bleeding as you may have air in it, did they remove the gear box and TC box to fit the new 1/2 chassis, as even if they did there is no need to bleed the clutch if they unbolted the slave cylinder


As TD5 clutches are noted as being difficult to get right the first time and may take multiple efforts to bleed correctly
 
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Was it a half chassis or 1/3rd chassis, if they do such things for a Disco?
Sounds it may be internal so can't see how it's their fault.
Bleed clutch I guess to make sure it's not that.
 
frostythor said:
the Brake pipes replacement have nothing to do with the clutch, bleeding the clutch can be difficult, so when you press the peddle were does it bite, if at the very bottom I would say in need bleeding as you may have air in it, did they remove the gear box and TC box to fit the new 1/2 chassis, as even if they did there is no need to bleed the clutch if the unbolted the slave cylinder


As TD5 clutches are noted as being difficult to get right the first time and may take multiple efforts to bleed correctly
Click to expand...
If you drive at snails pace it goes into gear i. To second with no trouble. Into 4th a little grind. When going around a corner at speed changing down in to 4th the grind is intense.... I just carnt get my head around into a garage.... No problem what so ever..... Then there is.
 
frostythor said:
the Brake pipes replacement have nothing to do with the clutch, bleeding the clutch can be difficult, so when you press the peddle were does it bite, if at the very bottom I would say in need bleeding as you may have air in it, did they remove the gear box and TC box to fit the new 1/2 chassis, as even if they did there is no need to bleed the clutch if the unbolted the slave cylinder


As TD5 clutches are noted as being difficult to get right the first time and may take multiple efforts to bleed correctly
Click to expand...
Is not the clutch fed off brake fluid and air goes up easier. It seemed to get worse after i got toa t junction and had to put extra pressure than usual on the brake pedal to eventually stop.
 
The clutch and brake fluid does comes from the same reservoir, but they have separate master cylinders, last year I replaced both my clutch slave and master cylinders it turned out to be problem with the steel feed pipe , original are very expensive, so I replaced mine with a flexible on from a company in Exeter, that allowed me to sit in the driver’s seat and bleed the slave before installing it, the piston pressurized as soon as I started to push the peddle, so no air in the system

20220626_100824.jpg



20220626_102732.jpg
 
frostythor said:
The clutch and brake fluid does comes from the same reservoir, but they have separate master cylinders, last year I replaced both my clutch slave and master cylinders it turned out to be problem with the steel feed pipe , original are very expensive, so I replaced mine with a flexible on from a company in Exeter, that allowed me to sit in the driver’s seat and bleed the slave before installing it, the piston pressurized as soon as I started to push the peddle, so no air in the system

View attachment 293822


View attachment 293823
Click to expand...
Cheers for this, im a bit handy but this is way out of my league. Im going back to garage next week. See what they say i could of just done with a bit more consideration after a +£2000 bill...
 
HI Wonky, I cant see where your from, but if you add your region on your profile you may find someone close who would be willing to help you do it,

but its not rocket science to bleed a clutch,
generally its best with 2, on pushing the peddle and one doing the bleeding, if you are bleed from the top this could take a lot of time and effort and fluid as the line from the master to the slave is long and vertical, so it can be hard to get all the air out,


Or bleed from the bottom, using a Easy bleed tool attached to your spare wheel, to pump the fluid up, and put any air out the top, why not have a look on Youtube and see what you can find on how to do it
 
frostythor said:
HI Wonky, I cant see where your from, but if you add your region on your profile you may find someone close who would be willing to help you do it,

but its not rocket science to bleed a clutch,
generally its best with 2, on pushing the peddle and one doing the bleeding, if you are bleed from the top this could take a lot of time and effort and fluid as the line from the master to the slave is long and vertical, so it can be hard to get all the air out,


Or bleed from the bottom, using a Easy bleed tool attached to your spare wheel, to pump the fluid up, and put any air out the top, why not have a look on Youtube and see what you can find on how to do it
Click to expand...
Buddy, you have overwhelmed me... this is the landy community i grew to love with a reply like that. Im gonna leave it till the garage have taken a look first.
I prefer your reply to thats three hours labour to see whats up!!! 🙏🙏🙏
 
Quick point, does the resevior feed the brakes and the clutch? and if they have had the pipes off they may have drained it to low.

On the other hand most cars can change gear without using the clutch once on the move, cable changes excepted, dogshti invention if ever there was one.

As said post up your rough area, not where you pick your ladies up from but approx location of where you take said ladies!
 
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