Lovely 110 - bravo! Under the cargo netting at the front - what is that rolled up canvas item? Pardon the dumb question.... Alan

Depeends on the resistance range of the Durite sender vs. the original. If they're close and you can accept some minor inaccuracy then no. If they're not then you will need to do so. If it comes as a kit I'd be at the sender with an ohmmeter to check the range of resistance. If you look...

Entrained air, aerated fluid, poor condition fluid, DOT5 silicone fluid in a standard system... What condition is your brake fluid in? if it's blackish and you have no idea when it's been serviced I'd flush and refill. A good bleeding would likely do wonders along with a swap-out of the fluid...

Yes, that can be done. helped a mate do that with his - the thing that needed doing was the caliper mounts needed reducing in thickness about .1 inches to fit. Seen it done with a grinder {shudder} which I don't recommend - it's a simple machining process to do it properly on a mill...

Re: Thrust washers: Yup, worn out. if you see steel there's nothing left of the bearing surface. As far as the gears, look for torn-up teeth (rough surfaces) or steps worn where the mating tooth rides. The standard of "wear" on something like this (as I was taught) is how much of the original...

Having an electric fan as a substitute works well - I have mine set up that way and it has held up even in +90F stop and go traffic. One thing to check would be that the gauge is reading properly - a thermometer chucked into the top of the radiator after bringing it up to temp (blanket over...

Re: Core plugs: Good point. Might do myself a favor and fit a block preheater while I'm about it - got an in-hose one that I use when it goes sub-zero here but think I would like one in the block instead. Keep it coming lads - every time I look at the post on "what to refresh" that got co-opted...

There is a procedure for 109s that helps deal with this and low pedal issues in general - was recommended by LR back i the mists of time. :) When adjusting the rear adjusters do so with a mate in the driving seat. Apply the brakes hard, then lock the adjusters. Let off the brakes, then back off...

Took me a bit to parse it - but I must say the translation just does not have the flavour of the original. :) Waineylap? Not familiar with that. On the subject of the brakes, though, I do agree it's much easier with the hub off. This way you can pressemble the shoes and springs and put them in...

With the number of Series engines in yards why would anyone buy a new sump?

Yep, my thought as well re: Shoot it. Going to do the belt, the front and rear seals, valve seals and have the sump off because it's leaking at the gasket. A few hours pleasant work - and this way I get to grind in the valves and make sure the damn hotspots are locked in.

Picked up my new-to-me 2.5D last night. It seems in great shape, though there is one bit I noticed that has me scratching my head a bit. At the manifold front side of the engine there is a stripe of oil down the block which doesn;t seem to be coming from the valve cover (my usual suspect)...

Another method for setting timing is the use of a vacuum gauge. Plug the gauge into the intake manifold on a warmed-up engine with the distributor loose enough to rotate. Start engine and turn distributor till you get a maximum vacuum reading, then back till the reading drops an inch of vacuum...

Back to the sump... First off, that one's been badly overtightened somewhere in its lifetime - explains the condition of the sealing lip. In this situation I just go for the files and the straightedge. If you want to be really insanely anal about it (not necessary for a sump but can be fun...

Unless you mean the curved glass bit in the corner it's simply a flat safety glass panel. A good glass shop can make this for you I am sure - i've had LR windscreens done that way wiith no difficulty. If yours has the metal edge on it you can likely salvage the edge and have it bonded to the new...

Still low. To be honest from the sound of things I'd have the valve conver then the cylinder head off. This could be a bad head gasket or a burnt valve on the deceased cylinder, or could also be a stuck valve not closing properly. One way or another you need to figure out why the cylinder is...

:wtf: I expect you'll be selling up then and going off to some German iron? I will take great care to keep from telling my 1954 Series I, 1964 IIA 109 and D110 that they've rotted away and are no longer useful - expecially the D110 with 300,000 kilometers on the clock. I'd hate to give...

Clutch has 10K on it...but very good thought.

Considering I have one here I would have done this had I wanted to. I like the 2.5d engine...

Your local FLAPS (friendly local auto parts store) should have a ballasted coil in their supply. There's nowt special about that coil - as long as it has a built-in resistor you can use it. That part was common to just about all LBCs, so shouldn't be too difficult to track down locally...